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4 July 1, 2013 Cookbook

Sunday Dinner // Chilled Asparagus Soup, Mustard Spaetzle with Mushrooms

Last weekend I finally had time to put together another Sunday Dinner menu. I’d been mulling over this one for almost a month, the inspiration coming mainly from the beautiful (if slightly challenging) modern Italian cookbook SPQR. While planning the first round of ingredient of the week (starring rhubarb!), the recipe for Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb caught my eye. It ended up being too complicated to make (and photograph and write about) on a weeknight, but I made it a few weeks later, and proceeded to plan a menu around it. SPQR is organized into regional sections based on the eight major thoroughfares in Ancient Rome, and the bavarese recipe came from the Trentino-Alto Adige section, focusing on recipes from the Northernmost part of Italy. Since I loved the idea of making a coherent, regionally-specific meal, I chose two other recipes from the same section that also utilized spring ingredients to complete the menu – Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe, and Mustard Spaetzle with Mushrooms. Of course, then I went and served a Mexican drink where a glass of white wine would probably have been more appropriate, but hey, it was really hot.

In contrast to the first Sunday Dinner I posted, this menu is quite elegant, the trade-off being that it’s a bit time consuming to prepare if you’re ambitious enough to make everything. Of course, everything except the spaetzle can be made ahead of time and served chilled, so it actually might make a wise choice for a dinner party. The thing I love about this menu is that it stars so many of my favorite spring foods – strawberries in the agua fresca, English peas in the crostini, asparagus in the soup, mushrooms in the spaetzle, and rhubarb in the dessert. Each dish is flavorful and elegant in its own right, and all together they make a luxurious and impressive meal. Since I’ve already written about the agua fresca, the crostini, and the bavarese, a few notes about the soup and the spaetzle: the asparagus soup is both refreshing and filling at the same time. The cream lends it a rich sweetness, and the asparagus flavor is not overwhelming. The lemon yogurt is essential – it provides a much needed acidic counterpart to the rich soup – so don’t skip it! The spaetzle is surprisingly easy to make, once you’ve got the hang of grating it into the boiling water. It feels both fancy and rustic, and it becomes extremely luxurious with a spoonful of cold creme fraiche stirred into the hot pasta just before serving – like the most grown-up mac and cheese you can imagine. Whether you only try one of these recipes, or you try them all together, I hope you enjoy them!

The Menu

Strawberry-Lime Agua Fresca (adapted from Tacos, Tortas, and Tamales)
Smashed Pea, Dill and Feta Crostini (adapted from The Modern Vegetarian)
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt – see below (adapted from SPQR)
Mustard Spaetzle with Mushrooms – see below (adapted from SPQR)
Ricotta Bavarese with Red-Wine Poached Rhubarb (adapted from SPQR)

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt

Adapted slightly from SPQR. Serves 4-6.

2 lb. asparagus
salt
4 c. spinach
2 c. flat-leaf Italian parsley
olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 medium leek, roots and dark green parts removed, thinly sliced
2 stalks spring garlic or 4 cloves garlic, minced
3 c. plus 2/3 c. of heavy cream, divided
1/2 packet of gelatin (3.5g or 1/8 of an oz)
1 c. whole-milk plain yogurt
zest of 1 meyer lemon
1/4 c. fresh meyer lemon juice (from 1-2 meyer lemons)
1 oz. fish roe

Cut the tips from the ends of the asparagus stalks. Prepare an ice bath, and bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus tips in the salted water until bright green, about 1-2 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge into the ice bath. Let chill completely, then remove from the ice bath, place in a covered bowl, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Add the spinach and the parsley to the boiling water. Blanch for 1-2 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into the ice bath. When chilled, remove from the ice bath and squeeze the greens to remove excess water. Set aside. Dump the boiling water from the pot.
Remove the bottom half inch from each asparagus stalk and discard. Slice the remaining stalks into rounds about 1/4-inch thick. Add a thin film of olive oil to the bottom of the pot, and heat over medium-low heat. Add the onion, leek, and spring garlic and saute until translucent, about 5-7 minutes, stirring frequently. Do not let the vegetables begin to caramelize. Stir in the asparagus and cook until softened, about 5 minutes longer. Turn off the heat and pour in 3 cups of the heavy cream and the blanched greens. Season with salt and pepper and place in a blender. Blend until smooth, then strain into a large bowl through a fine mesh strainer, pressing on the pulp to remove as much liquid as possible. Discard the green pulp. Taste the soup, season with salt and pepper, then cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, at least one hour.
To prepare the meyer lemon yogurt, dissolve the gelatin in 1/3 c. of the remaining heavy cream, whisking to combine. Heat the other 1/3 c. of the cream in a small saucepan over low heat, until just beginning to simmer, then pour over the gelatin. Whisk to combine and dissolve fully. Whisk in the yogurt, meyer lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour. Once chilled, yogurt should be semi-solid.
To serve, pour the soup into 4 to 6 chilled bowls. Dress the asparagus tips with the meyer lemon zest, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt. Top each bowl of soup with a scoop of the meyer lemon yogurt, a few asparagus tips, and a small spoonful of fish roe. Serve cold.

Mustard Spaetzle with Mushrooms

Recipe adapted from SPQR. Serves 6.

2 c. whole-milk plain yogurt
6 eggs, lightly beaten
1 egg white
3 TBS Dijon mustard
2 1/3 c. flour
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
olive oil
8 oz. sliced mixed mushrooms
2 TBS butter
2 c. baby spinach
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In a large bowl, stir together the yogurt, eggs, egg white, and mustard until mixture is smooth. Add flour in three additions, whisking until smooth between additions. Stir in the salt and pepper, then cover spaetzle batter and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to 6 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Use a spaetzle maker or a large-holed box grater to grate the spaetzle batter directly into the boiling water in batches. Cook each batch for 2-3 minutes, or until the spaetzle float to the top, then remove with a slotted spoon and place in a large bowl with a little olive oil to keep them from sticking. Repeat until all the batter is used.
Heat a thin film of olive oil in a very large saute pan. Add the sliced mushrooms and saute until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Add the cooked spaetzle and cook, stirring occasionally, until spaetzle are golden brown in places, another 4-5 minutes. Add the butter and stir to melt. Add the spinach and stir it into the spaetzle, cooking until wilted, about 2 minutes.
Remove the spaetzle from the heat and scoop into bowls. Top with the grated Parmesan and serve hot.

3 June 29, 2013 Cookbook

Ingredient of the Week: English Peas // A Salad of Bacon, Peas, and Fennel

I have one last pea recipe before I move on to other, less green things. A pea salad is perhaps not the most exciting recipe in the world, but it made an easy and satisfying dinner last night – and it helped me clean out the fridge before leaving for vacation. The basic blueprint for this recipe comes from Nigel Slater’s Tender. It’s a simple dish, as many of his are, made from hot crisped bacon, sliced fennel, peas, fried eggs, and the tenderest lettuce you can find (so far, lettuce is the crop we’ve harvested the most of). The original recipe also called for homemade croutons toasted in the bacon grease, but all my bread had gone moldy… so I skipped that.

I loved the combination of peas and fennel in this. Tarragon, anise, fennel… they all have that sweetish herbal quality that enhances the pure sweetness of the peas even more. I know I may sound like a bit of a broken record, given that 3 out of 4 recipes I posted this week had either tarragon or fennel in them, but it just works. Small, tender fennel bulbs are just hitting the farmer’s markets in Boston as the peas make their exit, so the timing is perfect, too.

And that’s all for peas. We don’t have a ton left in the garden, and it’s getting a little hot for them to keep flowering. Plus, I’m really tired of shelling them – I spent a good 45 minutes of my life this week shelling peas (and maybe drinking wine while doing it). Lessons learned from this edition of ingredient of the week? Peas taste great with fennel and tarragon, peas from the garden are a revelation, and for your own sake, find a friend to coerce into shelling them with you.

A Salad of Bacon, Peas, and Fennel

Adapted from Tender. Serves 2.

4 slices bacon
1 1/2 c. shelled English peas, from about 1 1/2 lb. pea pods
1 medium bulb of fennel, fronds trimmed
several large handfuls of tender lettuce, such as butter
2 eggs
1 tsp mustard
2 tsp red wine vinegar
2 TBS olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste

Fry the bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove from pan, and let drain briefly on a paper-towel-lined plate before chopping into rough chunks.
Turn the heat under the pan with the bacon grease to low. Wait a minute or two, then add the shelled peas. Cook until bright green, about 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally, then remove them with a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl.
Crack two eggs into the pan with the remaining bacon grease and fry sunny-side up.
Tear the lettuce into bite sized pieces and place in a large bowl. Thinly slice the fennel and add to the lettuce. Add the cooked peas and the chopped bacon.
In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, and olive oil until cohesive. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then dress the salad with it.
Split the salad between two plates, topping each with one of the fried eggs. Serve immediately.

3 June 28, 2013 Drink

Ingredient of the Week: English Peas // Green Pea Rum Cooler

It’s finally Friday! Does anyone else need a drink? I needed a drink. It was a long week, guys. Really long. But now it’s over – and I’m on vacation! For ten whole days! I’m headed up to Maine with Trevor and my family tomorrow morning, and I’ll be relaxing, eating well, and spending time outside, rain or shine (it’s looking like rain, unfortunately).

When I saw the recipe for “The Sweet Pea” cocktail in the April issue of Bon Appetit, I got really excited. English peas? In a cocktail? I’m in! Plus that drink is such a gorgeous pale green color I’m not sure how I was supposed to resist riffing on it. I wanted to be a little bit more adventurous with the flavor profile of this drink, and since I’ve been reading green pea recipes all week, I’ve got all kinds of ingredients that pair well with peas on my mind. After mulling it over for the past few days, I decided on the following combo: fresh green peas, cucumber, tarragon, lemon, and elderflower rum. And yes, this is what I saved my super-sweet-from-our-garden peas for.

The resulting drink was lovely. It had a wonderful herbalness from the tarragon, natural sweetness from the peas, a refreshing hint of cucumber, and the acidity of the lemon tied the other flavors together – definitely a departure from my usual super-sweet, super-fruity cocktails of choice. The elderflower rum is a little sweet on its own, and is definitely a nice addition, but if you can’t find it using regular rum is fine. Personally, I don’t like gin, but I imagine that it would work well here if you’re a fan of it.

So cheers! Here’s to a lovely weekend!

Green Pea Rum Cooler

Inspired by Bon Appetit. Serves 1.

3 TBS fresh green peas, shelled
3 slices of cucumber, about 1/2-inch thick each
1/2 TBS roughly chopped tarragon leaves
1 slice lemon
1 tsp sugar
1-1/2 oz. elderflower rum, or other white rum
ice

Muddle the peas, cucumber, tarragon, lemon, and sugar in a cocktail shaker until peas and cucumber are completely mashed. Add rum and ice to shaker and shake for 30 seconds, then strain into a glass. Serve cold, garnished with additional lemon or cucumber slices and a few whole fresh peas.

0 June 27, 2013 Food

Ingredient of the Week: English Peas // Around the Blogs

Once again, I’m tapping into the amazing food blogger talent that abounds on the internet to bring you some really exciting recipes using our ingredient of the week, English peas. I can’t do all the cooking myself, you know! Not only are there some really creative, beautifully photographed recipes included here – these four blogs are some of the best of the best. If you’re looking for something deliciously inspiring to add to your google reader, or (sad) your feedly, these are a good place to start! (P.S. Most of you already know this, but google reader is going kaput starting July 1st. If you follow me via google, head on over to feedly to do an easy sync up of all your favorite blogs!)

Spicy Grilled Pea Pods with Chili Soy Glaze and Mint from The Kitchy Kitchen

When I first spied a picture of these fabulously blackened grilled pea pods on Pinterest, my mind was a little bit blown. Grilling pea pods whole? Genius! Claire Thomas, author of The Kitchy Kitchen, is the one behind this brilliant idea to treat shelling peas like edamame – cook, season, and then suck the peas out of the pods with gusto, being sure to lick your fingers clean of all the spicy-salty goodness left behind. Also, I’m extra grateful to Claire for helping me prove to Trevor that peas are interesting enough to be the star of a recipe. Head over to Claire’s for the recipe, and to find more super-creative ideas (like roasted pineapple butterscotch pudding. Yum.)

Spring Vegetable Potstickers with Sweet Chili Soy Dip from The First Mess

These aren’t really a pea-specific food – they have lots of other veggies in them, like cabbage and asparagus and shallots – but they’re so cute and so clever that I just had to share them. When I think potstickers I always think meat, but these veggie ones that Laura made look just as satisfying and tasty as those really-bad-for-you-but-really-addictive pork filled ones.

Home Made Pea and Ham Soup from Souvlaki for the Soul

When I think of pea and ham soup, I usually think of a bowl of muddy green, overly salty, overly watery, and generally unappetizing soup reserved for days when there’s not much else in the cupboard than dried peas. I never even considered the possibility that it could be classed up with fresh peas and high quality smoked ham until I saw Peter’s photograph. What a difference! This soup looks thick and hearty and flavorful, a complete departure from my mental image. I’ll for sure be breaking this recipe out on the next chilly day we have.

Savory Quinoa Muffins with Peas and Spinach from Rachel Cooks

This is another recipe where you perhaps can’t call peas the star – but it’s certainly a unique use for them! Other than the occasional grated carrot or zucchini, vegetables don’t find their way into my baked goods very often, but I love the idea of having these healthy, veggie-packed muffins around for an easy and filling snack.

And… I’m going to cheat a little bit and include a few of my favorite pea recipes that I’ve posted here over the past few years as well. They’re worth sharing again, I promise.

Mint Ravioli with Sweet Pea and Goat Cheese Filling

I remember really loving these. Rolling the chopped mint out into the pasta dough makes for such a pretty green-flecked raviolo, and it’s certainly impressive if you want to serve these to friends. And apparently I’ll never get tired of pairing sweet fruits and veggies with tangy goat cheese. It just works.

Pea and Wasabi Soup

This is a recipe I put together for Greatist last year (adapted from Radically Simple). It has a short ingredient list, but the combination of sweet peas, tangy buttermilk, and head-clearing wasabi is intriguing and unique. And topping the soup with dried wasabi-peas is a fun use of an ingredient typically relegated to the snack bowl.

Lemon Broccoli Pasta with Peas

Last but not least – peas and cream and pasta. I know it’s overdone, but seriously, it’s so good. Quick to make, comforting to eat, and at least there’s a little bit of green on your plate. Peas are good for that.

0 June 25, 2013 Cookbook

Ingredient of the Week: English Peas // Green Pea Fritters with Herbed Creme Fraiche

I was reminded the other night of the difference between a mediocre English pea and a perfect one. The bag of peas I had picked up at the farmer’s market was just so-so – the peas were fresh, but not particularly sweet, and starchy even though they were small. As I shelled them I wondered if perhaps I had built them up as a favorite ingredient in my memory more than I should have. Really, these run of the mill vegetables were what I had spent months anticipating? Then, last night we went to Andover to take care of this week’s gardening needs. Of course, as soon as I got off the train in town it started pouring, then thundering, and then hailing. It was not an ideal situation. Instead of gardening we sat inside and listened to the storm while eating tacos made from the El Paso kit I found in the cupboard. Around 8 the lightning moved far enough into the distance that we decided to brave the remaining weather, so we ran out into the humid garden, the darkness deepening by the minute, and rushed through our chores. It was dirty, and dark, and the mosquitos were vicious, but I managed to grab a few handfuls of peas, favas, lettuce, and rhubarb to take home. On the drizzly drive back I was frustrated – we put so much work and money and time into this garden and here it was, mid-June, and all we had was a measly half-full bag of veggies to show for it, while the deer were having a free-for-all with our baby fruit. What was the point?

Back in Somerville, I washed the veggies and began putting them away. On a whim, I cracked open one of the pea pods and popped the peas into my mouth. I was immediately overwhelmed by the sweetness. How different from the peas I had bought! I’m sure the farmer’s market peas were initially just as sweet, but after coming off the vine they deteriorate quickly. Although the garden is still frustrating, the peas were positive reinforcement that all of our work is paying off, at least as measured by quality.

Now, after that story I’m being a little bit unfair and sharing a recipe that actually wouldn’t suffer too much from starchy peas (I’m saving what I made with our garden peas for Thursday’s post!). This recipe for green pea fritters uses both fresh and dried peas in what is basically a take on falafel. It’s from Deborah Madison’s Vegetable Literacy, and I was pleased with how easy, healthy, and flavorful these were. I love the use of tarragon in the fritter batter – something about tarragon just makes peas taste more like peas, a discovery I made when trying to create one of my favorite meals from Prague (that is a really old post – please don’t judge me too much!). The herbed creme fraiche is essential in making these fritters really sing, so don’t skip it. And, if you haven’t tried making creme fraiche from scratch, you should – all you do is stir together 1 cup of heavy cream and 2 TBS of yogurt or buttermilk, cover it, leave it in warm place, and 24 hours later tah-dah! Creme fraiche, for a fraction of the price you’d pay in the store.

To summarize: peas are really good right off the vine and they make gardening worthwhile. Make these fritters with some fresh peas. Make your own creme fraiche, it’s easy and cheap. Come back tomorrow for more pea recipes.

Green Pea Fritters with Herbed Creme Fraiche

Recipe adapted slightly from Vegetable Literacy. Makes 12 small fritters (serves 4).

3/4 c. green split peas (dried)
1 clove garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 c. shelled fresh peas, divided, from about 1 lb. of pea pods
2 TBS chopped tarragon, divided
sea salt
1/4 tsp baking soda
3 scallions, white and green parts only, thinly sliced, divided
freshly ground pepper
1/3 c. creme fraiche
1 tsp minced chives
olive oil or ghee, for frying

The day before making the fritters, place the green split peas in a bowl and cover with water. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let sit on the counter overnight to soften.
The next day, drain the green split peas and puree them in a food processor until smooth. Add the garlic, and 1/2 c. of the fresh peas and pulse until the peas are well broken up. Add 1 TBS of the chopped tarragon and a sprinkle of sea salt and pulse a few times to combine.
Scrape the mixture into a bowl. Stir in the baking soda and 2/3 of the sliced scallions. Season the fritter batter to taste with salt and pepper.
Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the remaining 1/2 c. of fresh peas in the boiling water for 1-2 minutes, until bright green, then immediately drain and run under cold water. Set aside.
Stir together the creme fraiche, remaining 1 TBS of tarragon, remaining scallions, and the chives. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Heat a film of olive oil or ghee in a large frying pan over medium heat. Drop spoonfuls of the fritter batter into the pan, pressing down on the batter to make rounded fritters about 1/2 an inch thick. Cook for 2 minutes a side, flipping when golden brown. Drain cooked fritters on a paper towel lined plate. Repeat until all fritter batter is used.
Serve the fritters warm with a generous drizzle of the creme fraiche and a spoonful of the blanched peas on top.

6 June 24, 2013 Cookbook

Ingredient of the Week: English Peas // Smashed Pea, Dill, and Feta Crostini

I have another ingredient of the week for you all! And… it’s peas. The podded, shelling kind, also known as English peas. I hope you like this series and I’m not boring you to death with the same ingredient every day (please, leave a comment if I am) – it’s so much fun for me to get creative thinking of ways to use one ingredient, and it’s certainly effective in making me feel as though I’m getting the most out of seasonal produce. If you missed the first week (starring rhubarb!) and are curious about how this series came about, you can read the intro here. But then come back and get excited about this humble but sweet green vegetable.

I always think of peas as an early spring vegetable, and I start checking for them in the markets as early as March. I really should know better, since I grow peas in my own garden and they’re barely above ground in March. The truth is, in New England, shelling peas really aren’t widely available until mid-June – the first time I saw them in any sort of quantity was last week at the farmer’s market. It can be an excruciating wait, but once the peas are ready it seems as if something else is ripe every week following that. They’re a true sign that summer is arriving.

Trevor was skeptical of whether or not peas were really interesting enough to dedicate an entire week to. His point, which is fair, was that peas are usually a side ingredient, not the main ingredient. To that end, I’m going to try and avoid recipes with the phrase “with peas.” We want peas to be the star, not something tacked on to the end. Peas are typically used in fairly common ways – mixed into pasta, served as a side dish with butter, pureed into a soup, or as part of a green spring vegetable salad. All of these are delicious, but I’m going to try and think outside of the box this week. I’m not promising leaps and bounds out of the box, but hopefully I’ll at least push on the edges a little.

These little crostini come from a book that’s a favorite source of inspiration for me – Maria Elia’s The Modern Vegetarian. One of the things that I really like about the book are the three mini-section that focus exclusively on the textures of one ingredient. In textures of peas, she includes five recipes – fresh pea stock, sweet pea custards, pea, basil and mint soup, pea jelly, and these smashed pea, dill and feta crostini. The idea is sort of that you make them all together and serve them at once to highlight the contrasts possible with a single ingredient. I considered doing that, but a pound of peas really doesn’t go very far – I’ll have to stock up again before I try the others. But the crostini are very, very good. Lots of flavors all mingled up – sweet, salty, lemony, herbal. I could have easily wolfed down the whole batch in 5 minutes. As it was, I paced myself and shared them with Trevor, sitting outside eating dinner and drinking agua frescas as the heat finally subsided for the day. A beautiful summer evening, with beautiful summer food.

Smashed Pea, Dill, and Feta Crostini

Recipe adapted from The Modern Vegetarian. Serves 4 as an appetizer.

1 garlic clove
2 TBS fresh dill, finely chopped
sea salt
5 oz. shelled fresh peas, about 1 cup (from about 1 lb. of peas in their pods)
2 TBS olive oil
1/3 c. crumbled feta cheese
2 TBS freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 TBS lemon juice
8-10 slices baguette

Place the garlic, dill, and a pinch of sea salt in a mortar and pestle and pound until they form a paste. Scrape into a small bowl and set aside.
Add half of the peas, 1 TBS of the olive oil, and a small pinch of salt to the mortar and pestle and pound to form a paste (you want it to be mostly smooth, but a few chunks of peas is good). Add to the bowl with the garlic. Repeat with the remaining peas and olive oil. Stir the smashed peas and the garlic together until evenly combined. Mix in the feta, Parmesan, and lemon juice, and taste for seasoning, adjusting salt or lemon if necessary.
Toast the slices of bread in a toaster, on a griddle pan, or under the broiler until golden brown. Immediately spread the toast with the pea and feta mixture and serve.

2 June 23, 2013 Drink

Summer Bucket List // Strawberry-Lime Agua Fresca

It’s official – it’s summer. The sun is up early and the promise that a summer morning holds is so tangible in the earliest hours, when the light is golden and filtered through the leaves, the streets are quiet, and the breeze is fresh with overnight dew. Well before the droopy, heat-baked hours of the afternoon, the morning is energizing and opens the world up, and I daydream of late afternoon beach picnics, cool dips in the lake, panoramic mountain-top views, and drippy ice cream cones. Most days, I instead have to go sit in a climate-controlled office all day, and on those days I try to make the most of my early morning runs, park bench lunch breaks, and evening walks home. But on the days when I don’t have to don a suit, I want to be outside embracing the season as much as humanly possible. And so, I write this bucket list. I never get to everything, but I like to write it down and do my best.

Some of the things on last year’s bucket list are making a second appearance this year. Of the five things that were left on my list last year, I have since done two of them – planning a trip (and I’m already working on next year), and just this past week I made it out to the Harbor Islands for a company-sponsored day of service (spending three hours weeding and pruning trees and planting flowers felt more like how I like to spend my free time than service – I’ll take it). Grilling is sticking around for this year, and I already have at least one day planned at the Cape… but I’d like it to be more than that if possible. Of course there’s also some new things, because goals evolve. And so:

Go camping. I got a tent for Christmas this year, and I want to use it. Rain or shine. I sometimes think of myself as this super-athletic, outdoorsy, idealistic version of myself that I’m really not at all, given that I haven’t gone camping in years. But I can change that! I just have to get Trevor on board.
Go to the beach. Summer used to be synonymous with the beach for me. Besides the two weeks we spent on the Cape, we’d also regularly make the journey to Crane’s Beach in Ipswich, often in the second half of the day after the morning crowds had dispersed. I love swimming, I love being in the ocean, I love walking on the sand. I had a few hours of beachy happiness in Italy, but I want to make that happen more than once, if possible.
Ballet camp. I’m already signed up for this one, so that’s half the battle, but I really want to make sure I go – and make the most of it. The plan is that for two weeks in August I’ll be doing four hours a day of dance after work. I’m prepared to be exhausted, but I’m really excited about the opportunity to do something with so much focus. And hopefully get a little svelter in the process.
Spend time with my brother. My little brother just graduated from Cornell, and in August he’ll be headed out to Seattle. I’m excited about visiting him there, but before he leaves, I want to make sure we got some quality sibling time while we’re both on the same coast. Starting with drinks this Wednesday.
Learn video. Video seems like it may be the way blogging is headed, and it’s a little intimidating, I’d like to start learning. My new camera has decent video capabilities, and you have to start somewhere – why not the beginning. Also, my friend Tracy has promised that she’s going to make me a YouTube star. So we’ll see how she does on that.
Grilling on my own. Grilling. Fire. It’s still so scary. I’ve got to get over this one and do it by myself. So far I managed to kind of light the grill on my own, but then Trevor took over. See these steaks as evidence.
Preserve our harvest. I really, really hope we have enough of a harvest to merit preserving – I would 100% consider our garden a success if it happens. So far, it looks like we’ll have plenty of peaches and blackberries (knock on wood), although the stupid deer are starting to go for the peaches. A good reason to eat more venison. If I’m eating homemade blackberry jam next January I will be the happiest.
Practice driving. I used to be a decent driver. You know, not great, but I drove all the time and I was fine on long trips to and from Maine and Vermont and the like. But over the past three or four years, I’ve almost completely stopped driving, partly because I don’t have my own car, partly because Trevor prefers to drive when we go somewhere together, but also partly because I’ve convinced myself that I can’t do it. And I do not want to be some 30-year old woman with a mental block that keeps me from getting in the car, so I have to start reversing that mindset. Now. With practice.

There are a few other big things on the horizon that aren’t exactly of the bucket list sort – for example, starting July 1st, I’ll be moving to a new apartment to share with Trevor, a big and exciting and kind of scary change for both of us. There is also a possibility that I might be doing some travel for work, but I don’t want to jinx it by getting overly excited until it’s a sure thing. All told, it’s shaping up to be a busy summer, but hopefully in a good way.

To celebrate this list, I’ve made Strawberry Lime Agua Frescas, because the fact that the farmer’s market is flooded with strawberries this week is a sure sign of summer. Also, it’s quite warm in the Northeast, and I don’t feel like consuming much of anything that isn’t a cold liquid. Three of these strawberries are from my garden, but that’s not quite enough to do anything with other than eat in the yard, staining your fingers red, so I picked some others up at the Davis Flea this morning. They’re very good, red all the way through and sun-sweet. This agua fresca is not too sweet and extremely refreshing – the perfect thirst quencher. Of course, if you wanted to make it a little bit more adult, I’m sure a shot of tequila wouldn’t be bad at all.

Here’s to summer!

Strawberry Lime Agua Fresca

Recipe from Tacos, Tortas, and Tamales. Makes about 6 cups.

1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled
juice from 2 limes (about 1/3 cup)
1/3 c. sugar
4 c. water
ice

Add strawberries, lime juice, sugar, and water to a blender and blend until completely pureed and smooth. Pour through a strainer into a large pitcher, pressing the fruit pulp to get as much juice out if it as possible. Skim the foam off the top of the pitcher and discard. Taste the juice and add more lime or sugar to taste if necessary. Cover the pitcher and refrigerate until chilled. Stir before serving, then serve over ice, with a slice of lime and a fresh strawberry for garnish.

3 June 20, 2013 Cookbook

Curried Leek and Zucchini Soup

This post was supposed to be a review of this new cookbook, but pretty much everything I tried to do in the kitchen tonight went awry. The plan was to make a quick soup and a hearty loaf of bread, both mainstays in the book, but the plan was not to be achieved. All the fuss started with the bread – even though I carefully weighed out all the ingredients, that dough was not going to become “smooth and elastic” by the power of my two hands alone. Not ever. After about 40 minutes of fruitless kneading, I dumped 2 extra cups of flour into the bowl, worked it in, and called it a day. Since I had already gone way off book, I pretty much disregarded the rest of the instructions for the bread after this point as well. It’s baking now – it smells good, but I’m imagining the texture will be less than perfect. I just don’t have the patience (or upper body strength, apparently) for bread baking. Perhaps I should continue to leave that and other long term cooking projects to the very patient Trevor.

Having washed my hands of the bread (literally, it took about 5 minutes to get all the dough out from between my fingers, and I still have little crusty bits stuck to my arm hairs. TMI, I know. But ouch.) I moved on to the soup. Since I was already frustrated, when I read that the soup was a “add all the ingredients at once and cover with water” sort of recipe, I decided that I didn’t want to follow those instructions either. I wanted a soup with leeks cooked in a fragrant curry butter, with the richness of chicken broth backing up the veggies. So that’s what I made. I still had lots of struggles with various kitchen implements – I tried to use a mandoline for the first time to make zucchini ribbons, and I couldn’t even figure out how to operate it, despite the three pages of instructions. Then I went to blend the soup and my immersion blender splattered hot soup all over my clean shirt (and clean kitchen). I almost threw the pot at the sink in frustration. But then I took the first bite of this soup, and man! It was so good! For only five ingredients – butter, leeks, zucchini, curry powder, and chicken broth – it was wonderfully flavorful and rich and smooth, with just the right amount of heat and spice. I loved it. And I felt somewhat redeemed for having struggled so much with the execution of everything. And I knew that I still had something worthwhile to share with you.

Curried Leek and Zucchini Soup

Adapted from Le Pain Quotidien. Serves 2.

2 TBS butter
1 large leek (about 1 lb), root and green parts removed, rinsed and sliced into rounds
3/4 tsp curry powder
2 medium zucchini
3 cups chicken broth
salt to taste

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the sliced leek and the curry powder and saute for 2-3 minutes. Chop 1 and 1/2 of the zucchinis into 1 inch pieces, reserving the remaining half a zucchini for garnish. Add the chopped zucchini to the pot and saute until leeks are tender, about 3-5 minutes longer.
Add the chicken broth to the pot and bring to a boil. Keep at a low boil until veggies are tender, about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat, and puree using an immersion blender. Taste for seasoning.
Cut the remaining half of a zucchini into long thin strips. Use these as garnish on the warm soup.

0 June 17, 2013 Cookbook

Ricotta Bavarese with Red-Wine Poached Rhubarb

I hope it’s been long enough since rhubarb week that you won’t mind if I post another rhubarb recipe – because this one is really, really good. It’s from the SPQR cookbook, in which everything is fancy and inspiring and makes me want to go back to Italy, stat.

I’m going to be up front here – this is one of those recipes that you should only attempt if you really enjoy cooking. It’s complicated. It has about a billion parts. Nothing is particularly difficult (perhaps with the exception of frothing an egg over a double boiler, I mess that one up sometimes), but you’ll need patience, and someone to help with the dishes. All of the components can be made a few days in advance, so if you do one part at a time it might not seem so bad. But regardless of how you choose to make it (if you choose to make it), the result is so, so worth it. Unmolding the frozen bavarese, spooning the brilliantly colored red and orange fruits over the top, and crumbling the addictively nutty biscotti crisp over the whole thing, you’ll be impressed with yourself. And when you take a bite, you’ll be even more impressed. The flavors work wonderfully together, it’s all sweet and juicy and creamy and crumbly and completely worthy of your finest company. Those folks over at SPQR really know what they’re doing.

A few notes: one, the butter, brown sugar, and biscotti crisp is so good that you will not be able to stop eating the leftovers. Consider yourself warned. Two, I actually prefer the bavarese at fridge temperature as opposed to freezer temperature, but experiment with the degree of frozenness that you like. Three, the red wine poached rhubarb, which in the original recipe was verjus poached rhubarb, is amazing as is, and would be good on other creamy things, like your morning yogurt (I won’t judge). Four, this whole thing was supposed to have powdered olive oil on top. I tried to make it. I even ordered the special tapioca maltodextrin powder online. But it didn’t work. Honestly, I don’t think this dessert needs any more elements. It’s ready to go.

Ricotta Bavarese with Red-Wine Poached Rhubarb

Recipe adapted slightly from SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine. Serves 6-8.

For the bavarese:

2 c. drained ricotta
3/4 c. sour cream
1 sheet gelatin
1/4 c. orange juice
1 lemon (juice and zest)
1 c. heavy cream
6 TBS sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 egg

Bring a large pot of water to a simmer over medium-low heat. In a large, heatproof bowl (big enough to place over the simmering water without touching the water itself), whisk together the ricotta and the sour cream. Place the bowl over the water and whisk until the ricotta curds are broken up and the mixture is smooth. Remove the bowl and set aside.
Soak the gelatin in ice water until softened. Place a new bowl over the simmering water and add the orange juice and 1 TBS of the lemon juice. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatin sheet and add it to the juices. Stir over the simmering water until dissolved, then remove from heat and set aside.
In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream and 4 TBS of the sugar until the cream holds medium peaks. Stir in the vanilla extract. Stir the orange juice mixture into the ricotta, then fold the ricotta into the whipped cream. Set aside.
In a third heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg and remaining 2 TBS of sugar. Place over the simmering water and whisk vigorously until the egg is pale yellow and frothy. Remove from the heat and turn the pot of water off.
Immediately fold the whipped egg into the ricotta-cream mixture. Grate lemon zest directly over the bowl and stir to combine. Pour the ricotta-cream into 8 4-oz ramekins or 8 large silicone muffin cups, cover tightly, and freeze until ready to serve.

For the rhubarb:

1/4 c. red wine
1/2 c. water
3/4 c. sugar
1 TBS lemon juice
7 oz. rhubarb, trimmed and cut on an angle into 1/4 inch pieces (about 2 cups total)

In a medium saucepan, stir together red wine, water, sugar, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Once dissolved, lower heat and add the rhubarb. Poach the rhubarb for 3 minutes, just until rhubarb starts to soften. Remove the rhubarb with a slotted spoon and set aside. Return the syrup left in the pot to a boil and boil until syrupy about 7-10 minutes. Pour the syrup over the rhubarb and refrigerate until needed.

For the biscotti crumble:

1 c. crushed biscotti (150 grams)
1/4 c. brown sugar
1/2 c. melted salted butter (1 stick)

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Pulse the biscotti and the brown sugar in a food processor until mixture is finely ground. Drizzle in butter and pulse to combine. Spread thinly on the lined baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes, until mixture is firm and beginning to crisp around the edges. Let cool completely then break into chunks.

For the orange confitura:

1 orange
1/2 c. sugar
1/4 c. water

Bring a small pot of water to a boil over medium heat. Use a vegetable peeler to cut the peel away from the orange in long strips. Slice into thin lengths, then add to the boiling water. Blanch for two minutes, then drain and run under cold water until cool. Pat dry.
Bring the sugar and the water to a simmer over medium heat in a small saucepan. Add the blanched orange peel and simmer until lightly candied, about 6-8 minutes. Cool the peel in the syrup and refrigerate until needed.
Cut the orange away from the pith into supremes, and set aside.

To serve:

Unmold the bavarese into bowls (you may need to soften them for 15 seconds in the microwave for them to pop out of their bowls, a hot knife run around the edges can help too). Spoon the chilled rhubarb over the top. Place a few slices of candied orange zest, some crumbled biscotti, and a few segments of fresh orange on top. Serve immediately. You may also serve the bavarese slightly defrosted – they will still taste wonderful but won’t look as smooth.

4 June 15, 2013 Food

Italy Part 2: The Maremma // Carbonara Pizza

Last week was a bit of a whirlwind. A stressful whirlwind. Work was busy enough that by the time I got home every night, I wasn’t good for much beyond pouring myself a glass of wine and zoning out in front of the TV, so I didn’t do a lot of cooking, or, needless to say, blogging. Next week promises to be equally as busy, but for now I’m checking out to enjoy the weekend. And a stressful week, while not conducive to blogging, is certainly ripe for reminiscing about a recent vacation, so I’m here (finally!) with pictures and stories from the second half of our trip to Italy in April. (For the first part, click here.)

1) Poppies near our B&B; 2) The abandoned abbey at San Galgano

Although I very much enjoyed wandering the streets of Florence and Rome, the part of our trip I was most looking forward to were the four days we had planned in a rural region of Tuscany called the Maremma. In general, I’m more of a wilderness lover than an urbanite, and the same holds true when I’m traveling. What initially attracted me to the Maremma was a big green spot on google maps – the Maremma Regional Park. A little internet digging and I was sold on the lush, green region, located halfway between Rome and Florence, with its promise of beautiful coastline, natural hot springs, agriturismos, wild horses, and plenty of open spaces to explore.

1) A view from the road leading to our B&B; 2) Trevor napping outside our apartment; 3) One of Norbert and Grazia’s chickens, whose eggs we enjoyed every morning

There are a lot of small inns, agriturismos, and B&Bs in the region, but I couldn’t have been happier with the one we chose – B&B At Home In Maremma, located centrally in the region only a 20 minute drive from the coast. We were the only guests, and our hosts, Norbert and Grazia, were immensely helpful and friendly. As soon as we pulled into the driveway and stepped outside, after 15 glorious minutes driving through rain-drenched fields of poppies and olive groves, they both welcomed us with a cold beer, stories about their time in Grosetto, and suggestions for our stay. We chose to stay in our own stand-alone apartment, with a private patio and it’s own fig and olive trees – although we didn’t spend much time actually in the apartment, it was a perfect home base. And the breakfasts that Grazia made for us each morning were amazing – on the first night, when she suggested that we might be tired of sweet Italian breakfasts and offered to make us bacon and eggs, we jumped at the chance to eat farm fresh eggs every morning. By the third morning of sunny side-up eggs cooked in a cup of prosciutto, served with fresh juice, rolls, chocolate cake, and espresso, we were pretty much the fattest, happiest little travelers. Although I did need to take a few weeks off prosciutto after this trip.

1) The natural hot springs at Petriolo; 2) Trevor standing beside the abandoned abbey of San Galgano; 3) The sun finally comes out while walking the wall at Massa Marittima; 3) An olive grove surrounded church at Massa Marittima

Our first morning we were disappointed to awake to rain, but decided to make the most of the day anyway and marked out a loop on our map. The first stop were the Terme di Petriolo, natural hot spring pools formed beside a river. We spent a relaxing hour lying in the steaming springs, plunging into the icy cold river from time to time, sitting side by side with some Italians who seemed to have nothing better to do on a rainy Thursday. (The Italians made me feel transparently white. Trevor confirmed this to be true). Sitting in the hot water while the cold rain plodded down around us was a wonderful way to spend a rainy morning – and free, too! After we were adequately soaked, we got back in the car and headed to San Galgano, an abandoned abbey, where there was also circular chapel where San Galgano used to live. And get this – there was a real-life sword in the stone there. Very cool. Or “a very mystic place” as Norbert told us. Our last stop of the day was the city of Massa Marittima, where we enjoyed a late lunch with a lot of German tourists, did some souvenir shopping, and walked the path along the city wall just as the sun peeked out from behind the clouds. I love walking along city walls – they’re always so beautiful and wild. Dinner that night was at an amazing place called Chicco Magico – and it was the highlight of the entire trip for me – but it’s such a good story, I’m saving it for it’s own blog post. Just to be a tease.

1) The view from our hike; 2) The ruined medieval abbey in the middle of the trail; 3) Trevor enjoying the beach; 4) The Mediterranean sea

Our second full day we had reserved for a trip to the Maremma Regional Park. It was a bit complicated to get inside, but we eventually made it to the trailhead and started a pretty, but steep hike up the coastal hills. There were only a handful of views, but looking out across the treetops to see ruined towers hovering above the sea was a pretty unique experience. Half way through the hike, we reached a ruined medieval abbey in the middle of the trail, and spent some time poking around that before forging on to the beach. After a crowded bus ride (that also included about 50 German retirees decked out in full mountaineering gear), we made our way a few minutes down the road to the beach that is located within the park. Although there were a few moments of panic as we frantically tried to communicate to the parking guard that we didn’t know how to get a parking ticket, we eventually figured it out and found a spot on the sand. Trevor relaxed and I dove into the water. I was probably the only person above the age of 6 who was swimming, but to someone from New England it was so amazingly warm, even in early May. I love the ocean. I could swim and bob and body surf all day, and I’m so glad I got to go in at least once so far this summer! That night we were pretty beat, so we picked up some bread to go with the last of our venison prosciutto and ate on our patio – where we were joined by every cat within a mile, all very keen to get in on the feast.

1) Horses on the way out of the regional park; 2) A wild fig growing on the wall at Massa Marittima; 3) Me standing outside the wall of Porto Ercole

On our last day we had to drive back to Rome, but didn’t need to return the car until 6pm, so we decided to take it slow and stop in Monte Argentario. I was initially unimpressed with the somewhat touristy town of Porto Ercole, but we followed our instinct and walked up a crumbling staircase to find ourselves hiking on a cliff around the old fort. The views were amazing, and as we continued down, we spotted a few rocky beaches that it looked like we could get access to. And we could. They were very neat – lots of pockmarked igneous boulders to climb on – but neither of us felt like getting salty before our drive back to Rome, so we stayed out of the water. After a quick (overpriced) lunch in a pirate themed restaurant (well, actually, everything in the town seemed to be pirate themed) we hit the road back to Rome.

And that was our trip to Italy! But most of you probably didn’t come here to read all about my vacation – you came because you saw a picture of that pizza. Carbonara pizza was the first thing I ate upon arriving in the Maremma, so that’s what I’ve recreated here. As soon as we arrived, Norbert and Grazia made reservations for us at this little pizza place in the tiny town of Istia d’Ombrone for dinner that night. We were both quite tired, but this pizza hit the spot after a day of public transportation, waiting around the rental car lot, and driving in the rain. After dinner we walked around the tiny walled town in the glow of the lamplight, only passing two other people as we walked.

I wasn’t sure exactly how to go about making a carbonara pizza, but I knew it had to have prosciutto (rather than bacon or pancetta), since we ate so much of it during our trip, and I knew I wanted the base sauce itself to be as close to a true carbonara sauce as possible. I have to say, I like my version of this pizza even better than the one we had on our trip – the sauce came out perfect, packed with oniony, cheesy, prosciutto-y, garlicky flavor, and with the extra strips of crisped prosciutto and a just-set egg on top of the bubbly, chewy crust, I couldn’t stop myself from eating a third slice even after I was full.

Carbonara Pizza

Serves 4.

1 TBS butter
1/2 c. finely minced onion (about 1/2 medium onion)
1/4 lb. thinly sliced prosciutto, divided (about 8-10 slices total)
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 c. heavy cream
4 eggs, divided
1 c. freshly grated parmesan cheese, divided
cornmeal (for dusting pan)
1/2 recipe pizza dough
1/3 c. freshly grated pecorino romano
freshly ground black pepper
2 TBS finely chopped fresh parsley

Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add diced onion and stir to coat with butter. Finely dice half of the prosciutto (about 4 slices) and add to the pan with the onions and butter. Saute, stirring occasionally, until prosciutto is crisp and onions are golden brown, about 6-8 minutes. Add minced garlic and saute 1 minute longer, then stir in heavy cream. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from heat.
In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together 2 of the eggs and 1/2 cup of the grated parmesan. Slowly pour the hot cream sauce into the eggs, whisking the eggs vigorously as you do so to prevent scrambling. Once all the cream has been added, whisk the mixture for 30 seconds, then set aside.
Sprinkle a small amount of cornmeal on 2 baking sheets. Flour your work surface and a rolling pin and roll out the pizza dough into two small (or one large) crusts. Place one on each baking sheet. Spread the cream sauce on top of the crusts up to 1/2 an inch from the edge. Don’t spread the sauce so thickly that it runs over the edge – you may have a few tablespoons left over.
Mix together the remaining 1/2 c. parmesan cheese and the pecorino cheese. Sprinkle half of the mixture over each crust. Layer a few strips of the remaining prosciutto on top of the cheese. Carefully crack one egg into the center of each pizza. Bake the pizzas for 12-15 minutes, until crust is golden brown and egg is set. Sprinkle the hot pizzas with freshly ground black pepper and the parsley.