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0 April 6, 2013 Asian and Indian

Vietnamese-Style Short Ribs with Soba Noodle Salad

There isn’t always something to say about dinner. As a blogger, this fact sometimes stumps me. But food isn’t always nostalgic, or earth-shatteringly creative. Sometimes, dinner is what it is simply because it uses what you had in the fridge and it was the Friday of a long week, so you wanted something more than a quick omelette or a salad. Something hearty that would go well with a much-needed cold beer.

That’s all the story there is behind these short ribs. They were simple and satisfying and good enough to share. The Asian flavors in the spice rub on the beef married well with the lightly dressed soba noodles, and the raw peppers and snow peas provided a nice freshness and crunch. I adapted the recipe from The Great Meat Cookbook, where I turned as soon as I realized my original plan for the short ribs (goulash) wasn’t going to pan out. I reviewed the book late last year, but I’ll say again that it’s an excellent resource for a meat cooking novice. And with that, I’ll leave you all to enjoy your weekend.

Vietnamese-Style Short Ribs with Soba Noodle Salad

Adapted from The Great Meat Cookbook. Serves 2.

1/2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder (I made my own)
1-1/2 tsp paprika
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
2 TBS plus 1 tsp dark brown sugar, divided
2 lbs beef short ribs
1 TBS peanut oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tsp minced fresh ginger
1 1/2 c. chicken or beef stock
1 TBS Asian fish sauce
2 TBS plus 1 tsp rice vinegar, divided
1 1/2 tsp soy sauce
1 whole star anise
8 oz. dried soba noodles
1 TBS sesame oil
1 red pepper, washed, stemmed and seeded, and sliced into thin strips
1 c. fresh snow peas, washed and sliced in half on the diagonal
minced fresh mint or cilantro, for garnish

In a small bowl, mix together the five-spice powder, paprika, salt, pepper, and 1 tsp of the brown sugar. Rub this spice mixture all over the short ribs, then place on a platter, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the peanut oil in a large dutch oven over medium heat. Add the short ribs and sear for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until nicely browned all over. Remove the short ribs and set aside. Add the onion to the dutch oven and saute for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and ginger and saute 2 minutes longer, stirring. Add the stock, fish sauce, 2 TBS of the rice vinegar, the soy sauce and the star anise. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and bring to a boil. Return the short ribs to the pan, cover, and place in the preheated oven.
Cook the short ribs in the oven for 90 minutes, flipping them over and checking for done-ness every 30 minutes. They are done when they are tender enough to pierce with a fork, but are not falling apart. Remove the ribs from the oven but keep covered.
Put a pot of water on to boil and prepare soba noodles according to package directions. While they are cooking, degrease the sauce from the ribs, and add 1 cup of it to a small saucepan. Stir in the remaining 2 TBS brown sugar and 1 tsp rice vinegar. Bring to a boil over medium heat and reduce to make a thick, syrupy sauce, stirring frequently.
When the noodles and sauce are done, toss the noodles with the sesame oil, sauce, and prepared peppers and snow peas. Serve with the short ribs and chopped mint or cilantro.

1 April 1, 2013 Cookbook

Broccoli-Cheddar Hushpuppies

Happy April, everyone! I’m so glad we’re done with all that January-February-March-extended winter business. I spent the weekend celebrating the warm weather (and Easter!) with some serious gardening and some playing with my new camera and some scalloped potatoes and ham. It was a much-needed break from being indoors stuck in front of a computer screen.

I’ve got another recipe from The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook today (check out my full review – and a recipe for Thai Pork Sliders – here). Hushpuppies are a treat that I haven’t had in a while, so I was stoked to see a recipe for them in The Chef’s Collaborative. I’d never really heard of them before moving to North Carolina, but while I lived there they were a staple side order with my pulled pork sandwiches. The greasy BBQ-joint version of hushpuppies (like the ones from Bullock’s that my roommate always drove home to her dad in NJ over vacations) are super satisfying, but my all time favorites were the ones at the upscale Watt’s Grocery – farmer’s cheese hushpuppies served with basil mayo. Those things were seriously addictive.

This recipe, which utilizes often discarded broccoli stems, as well as a healthy handful of grated cheddar cheese, is not quite as good as the Watt’s version, but it’s certainly easier to make these than to hop on a plane to Durham every time I want a little taste of the South. I served them with leftover sriracha aioli and relished every hot crunchy bite. I saved a little bit of the batter (this recipe definitely serves a crowd!) and learned Saturday morning that this recipe is maybe even better when it’s made into pancakes and topped with a fried egg and roasted red peppers. Just an idea. However you serve them, this recipe is quick, easy, and tasty – well worth the time it takes to mix up the batter!

Broccoli-Cheddar Hushpuppies

Recipe from The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook, contributed by John and Julie Stehling of Early Girl Eatery in Asheville, NC. Makes 48 hushpuppies. (To cut in half, use 3 eggs).

3 c. cornmeal
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp sugar
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
5 large eggs
1/2 c. buttermilk
2 c. grated broccoli stems (from about 5-6 medium heads broccoli)
1 c. grated cheddar cheese
1/2 small yellow onion, peeled and grated (about 1/4 c.)
1/4 c. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
vegetable oil, for frying
sriracha aioli, for serving

In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, baking powder, salt, sugar, baking soda, cayenne pepper, and black pepper until combined.
In a separate, medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk until evenly combined. Stir in the grated broccoli stems, the grated cheddar cheese, the grated onion, and the parsley. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until evenly mixed.
Heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over medium heat in a high-sided frying pan or saucepan until the oil reaches 325°F. If you don’t have a thermometer, test the oil’s temperature by adding a bit of batter to the oil – when it sizzles gently on contact, the oil is ready. If it pops too much or burns quickly, the oil is too hot.
Carefully spoon rounded tablespoons of batter into the oil, adding only enough hushpuppies so that they don’t touch one another (i.e. don’t crowd them). Fry until golden brown, about 2-3 minutes, flipping over once if necessary. Remove with a slotted spoon or Asian noodle strainer, and let drain on a paper-towel lined plate. Serve hot (leftovers are no good, so only fry as many as you can serve/eat in one sitting).

1 March 27, 2013 Food

Fitness Challenge Update // Greatist Collaboration: Twice-Baked Broccoli-and-Kale-Stuffed Potatoes

I used to consider baked potatoes a healthy dinner, and one I really loved. Sadly, the past few years of anti-carb diet madness have tainted my love for the potato, and I find myself eating them less often – even though I try hard to ignore fad diets and focus simply on putting nutritious foods in my body (potatoes are nutritious!) and resisting non-nutritious foods, the waters of all the health information out there can be tricky to navigate. In truth, a plain baked potato is a pretty smart dinner choice – it’s fairly low in calories, high in fiber, and high in potassium and several vitamins. The problems arise with the toppings – butter, bacon, sour cream, cheddar cheese, guacamole… potatoes love to be eaten with lots of fat, and not always in moderate amounts.

To help return baked potatoes to their rightful pride of place in my dinner rotation without succumbing to the temptation to use them primarily as a vehicle for butter, I came up with this recipe for twice-baked potatoes stuffed with a broccoli and kale filling. After baking, scoop out most of the potato’s insides, blend with a little bit of milk, cooked broccoli and blanched kale, stuff it back in the potato, top with a small amount of cheddar, broil, and you have a virtuous baked potato dinner the merits of which it’ll be hard to argue with yourself over. You can find the complete recipe over at Greatist.

Since we’re talking health, I also wanted to give you a quick update on my March Fitness Challenge. If I were a teacher, I’d probably give myself a B- on this effort, maybe a B for following the spirit, if not the letter of the challenge. So far, out of 27 days, I’ve exercised 21 of them – a 78% success rate. I managed to do the first 10 days in a row without taking a day off, but on the 11th I had a terrible stomachache and just couldn’t do it. Then, things got a little spotty, although I’m hoping to finish out this last week strong. Still, I’ve definitely seen positive effects – I ran my fastest mile (7’29”!) in years at the very end of my run this Sunday, I’ve been getting back into jump rope and managed to do 30 minutes non-stop with 5 speed pieces built in, and doing the Nike Training Club workouts has definitely started to change the shape of my legs and core. Even when I’m tired, I’m usually glad that I sneak something in. Maybe in April I’ll switch things up – 5 days a week for at least 20 minutes? – but I’d like to keep up the pace of my training. I’ll keep you posted! Did any of you manage to stick with this this month?

2 March 24, 2013 Asian and Indian

Book Club: The Chef’s Collaborative // Thai Pork Sliders with Pickled Cucumbers and Sriracha Aioli

I may have found a new favorite cookbook. When I look through upcoming cookbook releases and think about which books I want to include in my reviews, some are obvious choices – books that have received a lot of advanced praise, like Vegetable Literacy or Gran Cocina Latina, or books that were written by my favorite bloggers, like the upcoming Vegetarian Everyday from the blog Green Kitchen Stories. Others I choose on more of a whim, and the fact that The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook ended up on my desk is the happy result of one of those whims.

The Chef’s Collaborative is an organization founded by a group of like-minded chefs in the early 90’s to promote the ideas surrounding sustainable food. The organization now has 6,000 members, 115 of whom have contributed recipes which celebrate local, sustainable ingredients to this collection. Personally, I was happy to see so many local Boston and Cambridge chefs contributing to this book – Jody Adams and Brian Rae of Rialto (Pan-Seared Black Bass with Pepper Stew and Spicy Green Pesto), Ana Sortun of Oleana (Sweet Potato Chickpea Dolmas with Spinach and Crispy Mushrooms), Barry Maiden of Hungry Mother (Heirloom Beet and Upland Cress Salad with Apples, Grapefruit, and Fennel-Buttermilk Dressing), and a dozen others. (Side note: I feel really lucky to be able to walk to so many incredible restaurants. I need to start branching out beyond the Indian place around the corner.) In line with the organization’s mission, this book brings a lot of helpful information about navigating “ethical” eating in today’s world to the table – there are many side-bars with information about label-reading, understanding GMOs, why you should choose grass-fed, and more. Of course, some of these topics are controversial, so you should always read with a critical eye, but this book does begin to answer a lot of the most common questions about food politics.

Now, on to the food: I want to cook everything in this book – the Asparagus, Spinach and Spring Pea Lasagna, the Chestnut Waffles with Roasted Apples and Cream, the Smoked Rabbit and Andouille Gumbo, the Wild Ramp and Farmstead Cheese Strata with Roasted Tomato Wine Butter, even the Spicy Calamari with Tomatoes and Saffron Aioli (I don’t eat seafood…). Every recipe makes me drool a little bit. I think the book really benefits from having contributions from so many talented chefs with different aesthetics – all the recipes are creative but in slightly different ways, meaning each recipe seems fresh and the collection of recipes doesn’t feel the least bit tired. Just flipping through it is getting me beyond excited for our growing season to start in earnest. The first recipe I tried, these Thai Pork Sliders, was a slam dunk on all accounts. I’ve been craving a burger for a while (OK, let’s be honest, I’m always craving a burger), and these little umami-packed bites where just the ticket – craving 100% satisfied.

I went all out on this recipe, guys – homemade slider buns, homemade pickles, homemade aioli. It was all surprisingly easy. The slider buns only took 40 minutes from start to finish, with a quick ten minute rise built-in that gave me time to do the dishes before popping them in the oven. The pickles were an essential part of the recipe, but really required nothing more than making a quick salad. The Sriracha aioli was a last minute decision, based on a hunch that these might need something a little creamy to tie them together, and it made all the difference in the world. It’s addictive stuff.

I have to add – Trevor told me while eating these sliders that he gives this book a rating of “seven forks and a spoon.” When I asked what scale this was on, his answer was “the scale of silverware.” I’m pretty sure this means he approves, as well as that he finds himself very amusing. (I suppose he should also get credit for frying the burgers and doing the dishes…)

The bottom line: The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook is an instant favorite for me. The creativity and quality of recipes in this book – all of which truly celebrate local, seasonal produce, from quinces and fava beans to fiddleheads and wild crab apples – really help it stand out from the crowd. It’s not a book that will explicitly teach you the basics, but it will bring exciting, restaurant-worthy food down to a level that’s accessible for a home cook. Recommended for anyone who is looking to explore the principles of local, seasonal cooking, or who simply wants to bring a new level of creativity into their kitchen.

Disclaimer: Taunton Press sent me a review copy of The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook, but I was not otherwise compensated for writing this review and all opinions are my own.

Thai Pork Sliders with Pickled Cucumbers

Recipe adapted slightly from The Chef’s Collaborative Cookbook. Contributed by Chef Helene Kennan. Makes 8-10 sliders.

Note: the only changes I made to this recipe where to include a little bit more of various seasonings – more garlic, more ginger, more herbs in the pickles. This was simply a matter of taste, but I liked the little bit of extra flavor boost. Also, you will have leftover pickles, but they’re delicious straight out of the jar, so don’t worry about using them up!

1 lb. ground pork
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 TBS finely minced fresh ginger
1 TBS sesame oil
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
2 tsp soy sauce
1/4 tsp white pepper
1/4 c. rice vinegar
1/4 c. honey
2 TBS freshly squeezed orange juice
2 medium or 1 large cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
8 large fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
16 fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped
1 TBS vegetable oil
1/2 c. roasted salted peanuts, coarsely chopped (optional)
8-10 slider buns (see below for recipe)
Sriracha aioli (see below for recipe)

Combine the pork, minced garlic, minced gigner, sesame oil, cinnamon, red pepper flakes, and soy sauce in a medium bowl and stir together until meat is seasoned evenly. Set aside while you prepare the pickles to let the flavors meld.
Whisk together the rice vinegar, honey, and orange juice in a medium bowl until the honey is dissolved. Stir in the cucumbers, chopped cilantro, basil, and mint, and thoroughly coat all the cucumbers with the dressing. Set aside.
Lightly coat a griddle or cast-iron pan with oil and warm over medium heat (if you don’t have a cast-iron pan, use a regular pan but use more oil). Form the pork mixture into 8-10 small burger patties. When the pan is hot, add the patties and cook for 3 minutes per side, or until firm to the touch and cooked through.
Serve the burgers with the pickled cucumbers and Sriracha aioli on top of the slider buns. Serve the extra pickled cucumbers on the side with chopped peanuts, if desired.

Sriracha Aioli

Makes about 1 cup of aioli.

Note: I used an immersion blender to make this aioli. There are lots of other ways to do it – including by hand, or in a food processor, if you don’t have an immersion blender. Just be sure to slowly drizzle in your oil so the emulsion doesn’t break!

1 egg yolk
1 TBS of lemon juice
1 tsp water
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 c. olive oil
Sriracha, to taste (we used about 3 TBS)
sea salt, to taste

Place egg yolk, lemon juice, water, and mustard in the bottom of a vessel in which your immersion blender fits snugly. Pulse the blender a few times to blend the ingredients so that they are smooth. Very slowly drizzle in the olive oil as you pulse the blender, pausing the drizzle occasionally to make sure that the aioli is coming together and turning creamy white. Continue drizzling in the olive oil while blending until you’ve used all the olive oil.
Remove the immersion blender and stir Sriracha and sea salt into the aioli a little at a time, tasting as you go, until your aioli has the desired flavor and heat. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for a few days.

40-Minute Homemade Slider Buns

Recipe adapted slightly from Taste of Home. Makes 16 slider buns.

2 TBS active dry yeast
1 c. plus 2 TBS warm water (110°F to 115°F)
1/3 c. vegetable oil
1/4 c. sugar
1 egg
1 tsp salt
3 1/2 c. flour
egg wash – 1 egg beaten with 2 tsp water
sesame seeds

Preheat oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine yeast, water, oil, and sugar. Let sit and proof for 5-10 minutes – yeast should dissolve and get slightly goopy. Stir in egg and salt, then stir in flour a half cup at a time until you have a soft dough. Turn out dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5-8 minutes. Break into 16 equal sized pieces and roll them into balls. Flatten slightly and place on a greased baking sheet. Cover and let rise for 10 minutes.
Brush the top of each bun with a small amount of egg wash, then sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake buns for 10-12 minutes, or until golden brown.

23 March 21, 2013 Dessert

A Childhood Cookie // Oatmeal Scotchies

I’ve been craving cookies. I usually try to resist baking them for as long as possible, just because I know once they’re on the counter it will be hard not to eat them by the handful. But I’ve been putting off this particular craving for weeks, and it was time to give in. I thought about trying to come up with some creative new cookie that would really wow you, but, the thing is, I didn’t really want a fancy cookie. I just wanted something simple and sweet and crunchy. And when I remembered Oatmeal Scotchies, one of my favorite, favorite cookies, I suddenly couldn’t justify making anything but those.

This is a back-of-the-bag recipe – sometimes, those are the best kind. There’s something so comforting about recipes like these, ones that you’ve made a dozen times before. You barely have to look at the ingredient list to know – two sticks of butter, softened, three-quarters of a cup white sugar, three-quarters of a cup brown sugar, two eggs, one at a time. Like a mantra from your childhood. The first thing you helped your mother make once you’d graduated from boxed cake mix. The recipe you wrote for your “how-to” paragraph in first grade. Also, one of the few recipes you make where the time it takes to preheat the oven is all the time you need. Twenty minutes after you’ve started, you’re eating the first cookie, still so hot that the molten butterscotch chips in the middle burn the tip of your tongue. The first cookie eaten on it’s own, standing over the oven, the second one sitting at the table with a cold glass of milk. You spoil your dinner, and feel a little sick from eating one too many spoonfuls of dough. It’s a welcome ritual at the end of a long week.

These are one of my dad’s favorites, too, and when I eat them, I think of him standing at the counter, sneaking just one, OK maybe two more from the cat-shaped cookie jar. My family is away this week – in Colorado and New Mexico for my baby brother’s spring break – but maybe when they come back I’ll make another batch, to share with them. After all, it’s such an easy way to show your love.

Oatmeal Scotchies

Recipe from Nestle Toll House. Makes 48 cookies.

1 c. (2 sticks) butter, softened
3/4 c. white sugar
3/4 c. brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/4 c. flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp salt
3 c. oats
One 11-oz bag butterscotch chips

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, cream together butter and both sugars until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time, until fully incorporated. Stir in vanilla to incorporate.
In a separate, smaller bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. Stir into the wet ingredients until the dough has an even, slightly sticky texture. Stir in the oats and the butterscotch chips.
Drop rounded spoonfuls of dough (a little more than a tablespoon each) onto a baking sheet to form cookies. Bake for 7-8 minutes for chewy cookies, or 9-10 minutes for crispy cookies.

10 March 19, 2013 Cookbook

Book Club: Vegetable Literacy // Soba Noodles with Kale, Sesame, and Slivered Brussels Sprouts

One of the most buzz-worthy cookbooks released so far this spring is Vegetable Literacy, Deborah Madison’s information-packed ode to cooking with vegetables. Since I’m already planning for the gardening season ahead and dreaming of what to do with all of our fresh, home-grown vegetables, I was thrilled to receive a copy to augment my daydreaming.

This book is wholly centered around the plant kingdom. The chapters are organized by plant family, e.g. the knotweed family – sorrel, rhubarb, and buckwheat, or the nightshade family – potatoes, eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes. Within each chapter, each vegetable is given a lengthy introduction that mixes history, culture, biology, and even linguistics into a tale of the vegetable that is guaranteed to teach you something. (I’m still utterly fascinated by what I learned about Belgian endives – they grow on these massive roots, but in the dark!) Then the narrative moves on to discuss the best varieties (which reminds me of Tender), using the whole plant, kitchen wisdom, good flavor companions (which reminds me of The Flavor Bible), and how-tos (how to roast peppers, how to freeze garden-fresh swiss chard), before presenting us with the recipes that showcase that vegetable.

That may sound like a lot of information for every vegetable – and it is! Vegetable Literacy doesn’t follow the current trend of having pretty pictures with every recipe (although when there are pictures, they’re lovely, just not the focus), or having fun graphics and sidebars – this cookbook is all about the words. Even visually it’s about the words – there are entire two-page spreads that are simply four columns of text. But it’s well written, highly informative, and horizon broadening – it’s easy to read and easy to learn from. The recipes themselves are creative and unabashedly healthy, and would provide any avid home-gardener with years worth of dishes to try using their home produce in. I already can’t wait for my peas to come up so I can try the Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs, and I’m intrigued by combinations such as Corn Cookies with Almonds and Raisins, and Tomato and Cilantro Soup with Black Quinoa. There’s plenty of new ideas to hold my attention as a cook.

Coming back from a weekend of traveling and indulging with my girlfriends, I needed something fresh and simple to help re-balance my system. There were plenty of choices of fresh, delicious meals in Vegetable Literacy, but March is actually a tough season for local vegetables in New England – root vegetables are tired and everyone’s minds are on spring, but the first homegrown peas are still months away. So I went for a year-round staple, kale, and settled on this Soba Noodle Salad with raw kale, raw brussels sprouts, and a sesame-soy dressing. I liked that the noodles made the dish filling but the veggies remained uncooked, keeping as much of their nutrition as possible. It was easy to make and tasty, and I can definitely see adding a little bit of this or that (shredded carrot? raw red peppers?) as the seasons change.

The bottom line: Vegetable Literacy is a well-written and highly informative cookbook that offers both healthy, veggie-focused recipes and a wealth of information on the history, culture, and biology of the plants we find on our plates. Truly, it straddles the line between cookbook and encyclopedia. I’d recommend this book to anyone with an interest in gardening or vegetarian cooking, as it will likely expand your horizons on both topics.

Disclaimer: I was sent a review copy of Vegetable Literacy by Ten Speed Press, but I was not otherwise compensated for writing this review and all opinions are my own.

Soba Noodles with Kale, Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing

Adapted slightly from Vegetable Literacy. Serves 3-4.

8 oz. soba noodles
8 tsp sesame oil, divided
1 bunch Tuscan kale OR one 5-oz box baby kale
sea salt
8 Brussels sprouts
1 clove garlic
1 TBS brown rice wine vinegar
1 tsp soy sauce
1 TBS sesame seeds, toasted in a dry skillet until golden
2 pinches red chile flakes
handful of slivered chives or scallions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then cook the soba noodles according to package directions. Drain, then toss with 3 tsp of the sesame oil.
While the noodles are cooking, prepare the veggies. Wash and dry the kale. If using large, Tuscan kale, remove the leaves from the stems, then, working in batches, stack the leaves, roll them up tightly, and slice into thin ribbons. Place the ribbons in a large bowl. If using baby kale, simply put the clean dry leaves into the bowl. Add 2 tsp of the sesame oil and 1/4 tsp sea salt, then massage with your hands until the leaves have started to shrink and glisten.
Remove the outer leaves from the Brussels sprouts, cut off the bottom stem, then slice them as thinly as possible, using a mandoline (carefully!) if you have one. Cut the slices into slivers, then toss with the kale.
Pound the garlic into a paste with 1/8 tsp salt in a mortar and pestle. Whisk in the rice vinegar, then the remaining 3 tsp sesame oil, then the soy sauce, until you have a smooth dressing. Pour over the kale and Brussels sprouts and toss to coat. Toss with the cooked noodles, sesame seeds, and red chile flakes. Finish with chives or scallions, and serve at room temperature or chilled.

1 March 13, 2013 Cookbook

A Happy Wednesday // Italian Apple Cream Tart

Happy Wednesday, everyone! I’m in a remarkably good mood. This can likely be 95% attributed to the fact that today was bonus-day at my real job, but I’m going to pretend for a minute that I’m not primarily motivated by financial gain and tell you some other things that are good right now. Like, that this morning when I was walking to the train it smelled like mud, and the birds were going nuts, and the sun was warm, and I took a deep breath and it finally felt like spring. And that I’m going to be spending this weekend in Philly with my three best college girlfriends, and I can’t wait to see them and drown ourselves in girl talk and good food. And that I went to a challenging-in-a-good-way ballet class tonight and now I feel all loose and tired. And that I started a new and interesting project at work this week, and it’s energizing to feel truly engaged in what I’m doing all day.

It feels really nice to be able to recognize all these positive things. Since the middle of February I’ve decidedly been suffering from a case of the winter doldrums (does that word remind anyone else primarily of The Phantom Tollbooth? Perhaps my favorite childhood book). Work has been a little slow, and the weather has been awfully gray, and I’ve just generally been feeling uninspired and unmotivated. But with the longer, warmer days, and the feeling that life is seeping back into the world, I feel better and better. Ready to get re-engaged. Re-energized.

This apple cream tart from Venezia in Cucina: The Flavors of Venice is another really nice thing I’ve experienced recently. It was the third recipe I made Saturday when reviewing the book (and it’s sister book, Sicilia in Cucina) and it was easily my favorite, and thus deserving of its own post. It’s a fairly simple dessert – store-bought puff-pastry as a crust, a thick, sweet pastry cream filling, and a topping of sliced apples. But somehow the combination really got me. I was skeptical of the technique for the pastry cream – just throw it all in a pan and whisk vigorously? No tempering of eggs? How much potato starch? But I followed the instructions and I actually loved how it came out. It was thicker and less rich tasting than typical pastry creams, and it worked perfectly in the tart. I ate three huge slices of this before I gave it up for good to Trevor, and even then I was a little sad when he ate it all and there wasn’t any more. This will definitely go into the “easy but impressive” dessert rotation around here.

I hope you all are starting to feel the transition into spring too. And if you’re still waiting, make yourself something sweet – it will make the time go faster.

Apple Cream Tart

Recipe adapted from Venezia in Cucina. Serves 6-8.

1/4 c. flour (35g)
1/4 c. potato starch (35g)
3/4 c. sugar (160g) + 2 TBS sugar, divided
2 egg yolks
1 whole egg
2 c. whole milk
1 whole vanilla bean (or 1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract)
2 apples (I used Honeycrisp)
juice from 1/2 lemon
1 piece store-bought puff pastry, thawed

In a large saucepan, whisk together the flour, potato starch, and 3/4 c. sugar until lump free. Whisk in the egg yolks and egg, one at a time, then slowly whisk in the milk, incorporating a little at a time. Beat until the liquid is smooth and without any lumps. Add the vanilla bean or the vanilla extract and stir to incorporate. Heat the liquid over low heat, whisking vigorously the whole time, until the custard thickens to a spoonable consistency, then immediately remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 365°F. Wash and core the apples, then thinly slice them and toss with the lemon juice and remaining 2 TBS of sugar to coat the apples. Let sit 10 minutes.
Roll out the puff pastry to an even thickness and a width of about 10 inches by 12 inches. Cut a 2 inch strip off to make a 10 inch square. Press the 10 inch square of crust into an 8×8 baking pan, using the extra to press partway up the sides of the pan. Spoon the custard into this as a filling, then top with a layer of apple slices. Cut the 2 inch strip of pastry into 4-6 thin strips and use to criss-cross the top of the tart.
Bake the tart for 50-60 minutes, until the custard is set, and the pastry is golden. Remove from oven and let cool completely before removing from pan and serving.

0 March 10, 2013 Beef

Book Club: Sicilia in Cucina, Venezia in Cucina // Spaghetti with Breadcrumbs and Parmesan Meatballs

At the end of April, Trevor and I are headed to Italy for a ten day vacation. I am beyond excited. It will be my first time abroad since returning from Prague in 2009 (unless you count two whirlwind days in Madrid for work last summer), and I’ve been daydreaming about the trip since we booked the tickets in January. I’ve also been practicing my Italian, drooling over hotels in Rome and Florence, and thinking about what, exactly, I want to eat and drink while I’m there. So the arrival of these two regional Italian cookbooks – Venezia in Cucina: The Flavors of Venice and Sicilia in Cucina: The Flavors of Sicily – could not have been more timely for me.

I have to start off by telling you: the pictures in these books are incredible. Not just pretty, stunning. Many times while reading these books I’ve stopped to linger for several minutes over one image or another – an explosion of red and green paper confetti in front of an ornate church; a man mid-jump off a cliff into a serene ocean, the sky pink and a smoking volcano in the background; an earthenware bowl of spaghetti on a sun-dappled table. These books are full of art, and it’s art that brings another culture to life on the page. Although I received review copies, I would have bought them for the photography inspiration alone.

As for the food, the recipes are authentic and the instructions are simple – oftentimes, there are no ingredient amounts listed for anything that could be considered seasoning. It will simply say “season with lemon, salt, parsley” or “dissolve 3 TBS tomato paste in hot water.” While I could imagine this being a deterrent for an inexperienced cook (how much lemon? how much hot water?), I felt that it added to the over all… Italianness of the books. I like that it gives you the freedom to add flavor as you go and taste for seasoning, and I also like the feeling that that’s how an Italian grandmother might tell you to do it – “you know, add parsley until there is enough parsley. Bene, basta.” The recipes from Venice focus heavily on seafood, with only a few non-fish dishes to be found. You’ll find plenty of pasta – tagiolini pasta with spider crab and cherry tomatoes – antipasti – scallops au gratin with tomato – and mains – baked turbot with summer vegetables. The recipes from Sicily are still influenced by the sea, but there’s more variety. High on my list are the fried cheese balls with chili-honey sauce, lamb stuffed with potatoes and pistachio pesto, and spaghetti with ricotta and fresh pecorino. Both books also have dessert chapters, as well as sections spotlighting local wines and unique regional ingredients.

A final point – I love that everything, from the section intros to the ingredients to the cooking instructions, is in both English and Italian – it totally indulges my inner language-learning nerdiness.

These books are like a travel advertisement in the best way possible. But they are also useful in the kitchen, as a cookbook should be. To test out the two books, I made three recipes for a large and indulgent Saturday lunch/ as food to welcome Trevor back from his week-long business trip. I’m sharing the first two recipes today – spaghetti in a tomato-anchovy sauce with breadcrumbs, from Sicilia in Cucina, and mini Parmesan meatballs, breaded and fried in olive oil to make them extra savory and crunchy, from Venezia in Cucina. Both recipes were simple, tasty, and filling, in a rustic sort of way. I’d make them both again for a quick dinner any night. The third recipe was an apple-custard tart which I could have eaten all of in one sitting – but you’ll have to wait a few days for that recipe.

The bottom line: These two books – Venezia in Cucina and Sicilia in Cucina – are a beautiful glimpse into the food and culture of two specific areas of Italy. I would happily have bought them for the photographs alone, as they depict far more than just beautiful food and create a gorgeous visual tale of life in another place. The recipes are simple, regional, and authentic, although in some cases the lack of specificity in the instructions may be a deterrent to a beginner cook. The fact that these are dual language books in both English and Italian was icing on the cake for me – now on my upcoming trip, I’ll be ordering dinner like a pro. I’d recommend these two books for anyone who daydreams about Italy, foodie or not.

Disclaimer: Ammo Books, the U.S. distributor of these books, sent me free review copies of both Venezia in Cucina and Sicilia in Cucina. I was not otherwise compensated for writing this review, and all opinions are my own.

Spaghetti with Breadcrumbs

Adapted from Sicilia in Cucina. Serves 4-6.

1 lb. dried thick spaghetti or bucatini
3 TBS olive oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 anchovies
4 TBS tomato paste
1 c. hot water
1 c. fresh breadcrumbs
salt and pepper

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions, until just barely al dente.
While the pasta is cooking, heat 1 1/2 TBS of the olive oil over medium heat in a large frying pan. Add the garlic and anchovies and saute for 2-3 minutes, until fragrant, breaking up the anchovies with the back of a wooden spoon so they dissolve. Mix the tomato paste with the hot water in a small bowl until they have an even texture, then add to the anchovies and garlic. Let simmer on low, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes.
In a separate pan, heat the remaining 1 1/2 TBS of olive oil. Toast the breadcrumbs in the oil until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes, then sprinkle with salt to taste.
Remove the spaghetti from the pot as soon as it is al dente and drop straight into the simmering sauce. Turn off the heat and toss the spaghetti with the sauce. Add about half the breadcrumbs and stir to coat. Divide the spaghetti between bowls and top each with a handful of the remaining breadcrumbs

Fried Mini Meatballs with Parmesan

Adapted from Venezia in Cucina. Makes 25 1-inch meatballs.

1/2 lb of ground pork
1/2 lb of ground beef
1/2 c. of grated parmesan cheese (about 40g)
2 TBS of flour
1/4 c. of finely chopped fresh parsley
1/4 c. breadcrumbs plus more for frying
2 large eggs
salt and pepper
olive oil

In a large bowl, mix together the pork, beef, cheese, flour, parsley, 1/4 c. of breadcrumbs, and eggs until they form a smooth mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper, and stir to combine. Cover, and let stand for 1 hour to allow the flavors to meld. If it’s going to be any longer than 1 hour, refrigerate while you wait.
Heat 1/2 inch of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Form the beef-pork mixture into meatballs about 1 inch in diameter. Spread a generous amount of breadcrumbs on a plate, and roll the meatballs in the breadcrumbs to coat. Test the temperature of the oil by adding a few breadcrumbs to it – if they sizzle and fry up quickly, the oil is hot enough. Fry the meatballs in batches, using tongs to rotate every few minutes to ensure that they cook on all sides. When they are browned all over, check inside to ensure they have cooked all the way through. If they have, remove to a plate covered with a paper towel to drain. Serve hot, with tomato sauce for dipping.

2 March 7, 2013 Cookbook

March Fitness Challenge // Roast Vegetable Salad with Goat Cheese Mousse

If any of you follow me on Twitter (do it! I promise I’ll do my best to say vaguely entertaining things), you may have noticed that I’ve been tweeting some nonsense about #March15ADay for the past 7 days. Basically, I’ve challenged myself to workout for at least 15 minutes every day in March. Things that count as workouts are running, lifting, jump rope, ballet, and NTC workouts (which I’m really loving). Things that do not count are walking to the subway and lying on the floor with my arms spread out while telling myself that I’m stretching (I have, in the past, counted this as exercise). Vigorous cooking does not count either.

Tonight marks the end of my first week – I’ve gone running twice, done a 20 minute jump rope session, and done targeted strength training for my arms, abs, and back. I’m kinda sore. But proud of myself! When it’s 10 o’clock at night and I haven’t done anything yet, I close my eyes and imagine myself looking fabulous in a linen dress that I don’t own yet on a hillside in Italy where I’ll be in 49 days (49? Am I prematurely excited?) and it’s highly motivating. I’d love it if any of you want to join me for the remainder of the month and tweeted your workouts! It’s always helpful to have a group of people to hold you accountable for something like this.

To support my health kick, I’m also trying to eat a lot more green stuff. I’ve said it before, but I sometimes have a tough time with salads – I want to like my salad, so as I walk down the salad bar I add ingredients I love, and before I know it, I have a container full of bacon, hard-boiled eggs, feta cheese, and chickpeas, with a few pathetic leaves of spinach on top. NOT THE POINT, KATIE. So when I find a salad recipe that’s both tasty and healthy, and that I can easily make ahead and bring in to work all week, I’m thrilled. This roast vegetable salad, from the newly released The Little Paris Kitchen (see my full review here!), fits the bill perfectly. Make the goat cheese mousse if you’re feeling creative, but if not, regular goat cheese crumbled on top would be just as yummy.

Roast Vegetable Salad with Goat Cheese Mousse

Recipe adapted slightly from The Little Paris Kitchen. Serves 4.

4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 1 inch chunks
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 large beet, trimmed and scrubbed
7 TBS olive or sunflower oil, divided
salt to taste
4 oz. bacon, cut into pieces and cooked until crisp
2 TBS cider vinegar
4 oz. goat cheese
1/4 c. milk
1/4 c. whipping cream
5-6 oz. of salad greens (I used spinach)

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toss the carrots, apples, and parsnips with 2 TBS of the oil, and sprinkle liberally with salt. Spread out on a large baking tray. Place the beet inside a tinfoil package, drizzle with 1 TBS of the oil and a sprinkle of salt, and seal the tinfoil package. Place on the baking tray with the other vegetables. Roast for 45 minutes, flipping the chopped veggies once to prevent them from burning. Remove the chopped vegetables and set aside, and continue to roast the beet until you can pierce it easily with a fork (the length of time will depend on the size of the beet, it could take an additional 10-30 minutes). Once the beet is cooked, remove from the oven and let cool just until you can handle it comfortably. Then, peel the beet with your hands – the peel should slip easily off. Thinly slice the cooked beet and place with the other veggies. Toss the roasted veggies with the bacon pieces.
Mix together the remaining 4 TBS of olive oil with the cider vinegar to make the dressing. Season to taste with salt. Set aside.
Beat the cheese and the milk together until soft and lump free. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until stiff peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the cheese a bit at a time, until it is thoroughly combined. Place in a frosting piping bag.
Arrange the salad leaves on four plates. Top with the veggie-bacon mix, and drizzle with the dressing. Use the piping bag to place small blobs of the goat cheese mousse on top of the salad. Serve immediately.