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Katie at the Kitchen Door

Globally-inspired, seasonal recipes

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Beguni – Bengali Eggplant Fritters

18 October 15, 2011 Asian and Indian

Beguni – Bengali Eggplant Fritters

I came home from Andover with a lot of produce on Tuesday night – besides a giant bag of apples, I also had an armful of eggplants, a bunch of kale, and fresh herbs, all scavenged from the Andover garden.  Now, free produce is free produce, and I was as excited about it as I always am about free food (or free anything, really), but I was a little perplexed by what to do with 8 eggplants.  My rate of eggplant consumption is generally about 1 per month, not because I don’t like it, but because I only have one or two ways of preparing it – the first being roasting it and tossing it with pasta and feta, the second being baba ghanoush.  These are both delicious, but I don’t like cooking or eating the same thing too frequently (except when it comes to breakfast, where my weekly repertoire of recipes never exceeds two), so I wanted to try something new with my bounty.

Turns out, I actually had several eggplant recipes already bookmarked (it’s hard to keep track of the recipes you have bookmarked when you have over 500 of them, and it can be so exciting to rediscover them), so I set about trying a few.  Eggplant cream sauce, vegetarian eggplant meatballs, baked eggplant chips, Turkish eggplant phyllo pies – where to start?  It was Saturday afternoon, I was extremely hungry after a 6 mile run, I wanted to blog and use up some of my produce, but I only had an hour before I had to leave to catch a train.  So, I decided to try these quick Indian eggplant snacks – called Beguni.  They’re just thin slices of eggplant, dredged in a gently spiced chickpea batter, and fried hot until the batter is golden brown and the eggplant is tender.  Having never been to India, I can’t personally attest to this, but from what I’ve read, they are an extremely popular street food item sold mainly during monsoon season.  (It rained a lot yesterday – does that count?)

They ended up being the perfect solution.  Super easy to both prepare and cook, I had a hot, tasty snack within 15 minutes of deciding to make these, and I even had time to snap a few photos, and make sticky figs (coming soon!).  This may not be the healthiest way to enjoy eggplant, but it’s definitely delicious, and certainly a departure from my standard eggplant recipes.  If you’re looking for a new way to prepare eggplant, a quick afternoon snack, or a tasty appetizer to an Indian themed dinner, these are definitely worth trying.  And be sure to fry up any extra batter as a treat for yourself rather than dumping it – it’s super yummy by itself, although not as good as with hot, creamy eggplant inside!

Beguni – Bengali Eggplant Fritters

Adapted slightly from Ecurry.  Serves 1.

  • 1 small Chinese eggplant, 6-8 inches long
  • coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 c. chickpea flour
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric
  • 1/4 tsp chili powder
  • 1/8 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 c. water
  • canola oil
  • fresh mint leaves (optional)
  1. Slice the eggplant into rounds about 1/2 inch thick.  Lay out on a tray or plate and sprinkle with salt, and let sit ten minutes.  Rinse off salt and pat dry.
  2. In a medium bowl whisk together chickpea flour, turmeric, chili powder, and baking powder until thoroughly combined.  Add water and beat until batter is smooth.  Batter should be thick but still fluid, so that it stays in a thin layer on the eggplant when dipped in it.  Add more water or chickpea flour as necessary to get the right consistency (after frying a test fritter, I found that the batter needed a bit more water than the original recipe called for, which is reflected in the recipe above).
  3. Heat about 1/4 inch of oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.  When it is shimmering, dredge the eggplant slices in the chickpea batter and place in the pan, leaving space between the fritters.  Cook for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook another minute and a half.  Fritters should be golden brown on both side, and eggplant should be tender in the center.  Sprinkle with sea salt and serve hot.  I really enjoyed eating them with a fresh mint leaf pressed on top of each fritter, but I doubt that this is traditional.

Apple Pancakes and Playing Hookey

1 October 12, 2011 Boston

Apple Pancakes and Playing Hookey

Because I spent most of last weekend at the office, I took Tuesday as a comp day to try and make up for the beautiful fall weather we had on Saturday and Sunday.  As soon as I had decided that, yes, I really was going to take my first day off of work, my mind immediately started buzzing with all the things I wanted to do to make the most of it.  Sometimes, this can be a bit of a mental trap for me, as I get so bogged down in the planning and the anticipation that I forget to enjoy the actual doing.  This time, though, it worked out great – I knew exactly what I wanted to do when I fell asleep Monday night, the weather was supposed to be beautiful, I hadn’t tried to pack too much into one day, and so Tuesday morning, I just got up and did it.  And it was great.

I knew that to be as awesome as I wanted it to be, my day off would have to involve several things: one, being outside as much as possible; two, delicious food, preferably homemade; three, Trevor, because how good can a day be without a little flirtation; and four, my family, because I really do think that a significant portion of my best memories are just of sitting around the kitchen table with my family, drinking red wine, eating hearty meals, and laughing hysterically.  The solution to all these requirements ended up coming in a single form: apples.  Apple pancakes in the morning, apple picking with Trevor in the afternoon, and apple crisp with my family at night.  Given how many apples I ate yesterday, the doctor should be away for quite some time.

Apple picking is one of my favorite fall activities.  It’s outside, it’s a quintessential New England thing, it’s wholesome, and it involves food.  I grew up going to Smolak Farms, and driving around the corner of the orchard and looking down the hill at the lake and the pumpkin patch and the farmhouse fills me with this great surge of childish excitement.  Trevor and I spent two hours picking almost every kind of apple they had – we must have eaten at least 6 just while walking around.  We decided that apples are truly best just off the tree because they’re at the perfect temperature – refrigerated apples are so cold they hurt your teeth, apples left in your backpack all day are kind of warm and mealy, but just off the tree they have just the right amount of cool crispness.  God, they were so good.  When our bag was packed so full that I may have had to sneak an extra apple into my purse (it would have just rotted on the ground otherwise!) and we had chased some wild turkeys and climbed a few trees, it was time for the real reason for our visit – eating cider donuts.  Because cider donuts are possibly my favorite food groups.  And I still have one left over for breakfast tomorrow.  Win.  After that we headed back to my house for spaghetti with pepper sauce, salad, red wine, and hot apple crisp.  The day was as perfect and fulfilling as I’d wanted it to be, and I fell asleep happy and refreshed.  And very full.

Now let’s get back to breakfast.  I’m really picky about my pancakes – I hardly ever like them at diners, I refuse to eat them if they’re made from a mix, and I think fake maple syrup is inedible.  It’s probably because I grew up with my dad making awesome pancakes fairly frequently – he has a recipe, and he has it down, and now I’m just used to the best.  I like my pancakes thick and a little bit tangy – buttermilk is a must – usually with some blueberries or other fruit in them.  I’ve tried a lot of different recipes, and so far only one has been up to my standards.  It uses buttermilk and a smidge of sour cream, and the result is super flavorful, super moist pancakes.  I adapted it here with some fall-ish spices and chunks of fresh apples, then served them with boiled apple cider syrup and apple slices cooked in caramel.  They.  Were.  Heavenly.  Exactly what I wanted, and then some.  If moist, tangy pancakes and apples and deliciousness are your thing, try these the next time you want to have an awesome day, or celebrate fall, or go to work late, or all of the above.

Apple Buttermilk Pancakes with Cider Syrup

Pancakes adapted from Brown-Eyed Baker.  Makes 6-8 pancakes.

  • 2 c. flour
  • 2 TBS sugar
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp allspice
  • 2 c. buttermilk
  • 1/4 c. sour cream
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 TBS butter, melted and slightly cooled
  • 2 apples, peeled and cut into 1/2 in. chunks
  • 1/2 c. sugar
  • 1 tsp cornstarch
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1 c. apple cider
  1. Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices together until thoroughly combined.  In a separate bowl, gently beat eggs, then add buttermilk, sour cream, and melted butter, and mix until just combined.  Do not overmix.  Add wet ingredients to dry, and mix gently until batter is evenly moist, but still slightly lumpy.  Do not beat or overmix, as that will toughen your pancakes.  Add apple chunks, stir to distribute throughout batter, then let batter sit, undisturbed, for 10-20 minutes.
  2. Heat a frying pan or on a griddle over medium-low heat.  Wait 3-5 minutes for pan to heat up – pan is ready when a drop of water flicked at the pan sizzles and evaporates within 2 seconds of being dropped on the pan.  Add 1/2 c. pancake batter to pan/griddle, and let cook for ~3 minutes – pancakes are usually ready to flip when the top side begins to have tiny air bubbles that burst.  Carefully flip, and cook until golden brown on both sides.  Repeat with remaining pancakes.  Serve hot, with syrup!
  3. Cider syrup:  mix cornstarch with a small amount of the cider until it is fully dissolved, then mix all remaining ingredients in a saucepan.  Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until syrup has thickened to the desired consistency.  If you like a thick syrup, use 2 tsp cornstarch.  Store leftover syrup in fridge.

Sage Pesto, Apples, and Fall

0 October 9, 2011 Food

Sage Pesto, Apples, and Fall

Since starting work, my goal has been to get the cooking and photographs for two posts done each Sunday, so that I can post twice a week without having to worry about shooting after dark.  If you look at the number of posts in September (4) and so far in October (this one makes 2), you’ll notice that I haven’t exactly achieved this goal.  Last Sunday I finally managed to get two cooking-styling-shooting sessions done in one day, and I was pretty excited about this accomplishment, so it should tell you something about my week that I’m not getting to posting it until a full week later.  The beginning of the week went smoothly enough – I had a great dance class Tuesday, and Wednesday I went to my very first food blogger event, which was awesome, and which I will hopefully write more about soon.  After that, no good.  Thursday night I got home from work at 10:30.  Friday night at 11:30.  Saturday night at 10:00.  Who has to work all day and all night on a Saturday??  Me, apparently, but I think this is a pretty rare occurrence in my group, so I’m trying to let go of the immense frustration canceling all of my weekend plans to sit staring at a computer screen in a boring office caused me and move forward.  Huge sigh.

Moving on, welcome to fall!  It hasn’t quite been the fall I’ve been dreaming of, but it’s had its moments.  The wet, humid streak seems to have finally ended, and this weekend was warm, sunny, dry, and beautiful – and at least I got to have a nice brunch with Becky outside before being sucked back into a climate controlled environment on Saturday.  I’m hoping to get just one good fall day in to get me through to next fall – preferably a day with apple picking, pumpkin carving, leaf catching, earth toned sweaters, cider donuts and hot cider, stargazing, and snuggling by the fire.  Yes, I would like to live in an L.L. Bean catalog.  Here’s hoping.

While I wait for this perfect day, on which I’m going to play hooky from work to make up for the few miserable nights of this past week, I made this sage pesto, apple, and goat cheese flatbread to get in the fall spirit.  Fall is obviously the best season for apples in any form, and sage has always struck me as an autumnal thing.  Plus, I’m trying to use up my herbs before the first frost gets ’em.  The inspiration for this flatbread comes from these sage pesto, chicken, and apple sandwiches, but I didn’t feel like grilling chicken (grilling is still a missing culinary skill of mine), so I reinvented it.  I’ve had the sandwiches as they are before, and was able to make some tweaks to the pesto this time to make it … sagey-er.  I loved the pesto I ended up with – the dominant flavor was sweet and mild with that tiny medicinal hit sage has and twangy-salty undertones from the pecorino cheese.  The execution of the flatbread itself wasn’t perfect, but the flavors were great together.  I’m posting the pesto portion of the recipe as I made it, but the flatbread recipe here is improved in elegance over what I actually did, which was throw all the ingredients on top of a pre-existing foccacia bread and heat it up for 10 minutes (I know, I know, but I was racing the sunset… it was still tasty enough to eat for dinner and breakfast).  Even if the flatbread doesn’t appeal to you, I hope you try the pesto and use it elsewhere – it’s such a nice, autumn-y twist on regular basil pesto.

Sage Pesto, Apple, and Goat Cheese Flatbreads

Inspired by Bon Appetit.  Serves 2.

  • 1/2 c. lightly packed fresh sage leaves
  • 1/2 c. cashews
  • 3 oz. pecorino romano cheese
  • 1/3 c. olive oil
  • 1 foccacia bread or unbaked pizza crust
  • 1 apple, cored and sliced thinly
  • 1 TBS butter
  • 3 oz. goat cheese
  1. Make sage pesto: in a food processor, pulse cashews, pecorino, and half of olive oil, until smooth.  Add sage and pulse until fully blended.  Add remaining olive oil as needed (plus more if required) to get a smooth consistency.  Taste and adjust ingredients as desired, adding more of whatever flavor you think is missing.  Set aside.
  2. If using pizza crust, preheat oven to 400°F.  Melt butter in a large saucepan and place sliced apples in pan (you might even consider adding a touch of brown sugar at this stage if you’re not opposed to too much sweetness on a pizza).  Sautee, flipping once, until soft and slightly browned.  Smooth pesto over pizza crust (or foccacia) and top with sauteed apples.  Crumble goat cheese over top and bake for 10 minutes, until crust is golden and cheese is slightly browned.  If using a foccacia, spread pesto on foccacia, cover with apples, then sprinkle with goat cheese.  Broil on high for 2-4 minutes, until it is heated through and cheese is slightly golden.
Lemon-Cream Sandwich Cookies

0 October 2, 2011 Dessert

Lemon-Cream Sandwich Cookies

Most of you can probably imagine my excitement when, after only 5 weeks of work, one of my co-workers announced that there would be a company wide charity bake-off the following week.  Baking?  As a competition?  With the chance to win both admiration and a sizable donation to the charity of my choice?  Even if you just asked me to bake you something and there was no competitive aspect, chance for glory, or prize, I would probably say yes – I just like to bake without feeling pressured to eat it all myself.  So I was definitely going to participate in the bake-off.  I started brainstorming immediately.  I made a test batch of caramel-apple bars and brought them in to the office.  Reactions were good, but I didn’t love the presentation.  So I made some chocolate-mint cupcakes over the weekend.  Delicious, but might present difficulties in transportation on a crowded subway during rush hour.  Besides, some people expressed dislike for the chocolate-mint combination at lunch on Monday, and I wanted everyone to be happy.

Then, I had it.  Lemon-cream sandwich cookies.  A buttery, melt-in-your mouth cookie filled with sweet-tart lemon buttercream, rolled in sanding sugar.  Pretty, easy to transport, and delicious.  I went to buy lemon extract on my lunch break, sat down at my desk, and announced with satisfaction to my pod-mate that I had finally made a decision – I would be making lemon sandwich cookies.

“Ew, lemon.”  What?  Who doesn’t like lemon?  I thought lemon was number three for most common and agreeable dessert flavors, right after chocolate and vanilla, maybe tied with strawberry.  But some other people walking by overheard and nodded in agreement.  “Don’t make lemon.  I don’t really like lemon.”  What a weird group of people I work with.  But they’re awesome in most other ways, so I guess I’ll just look past the dessert preference thing.  Anyways, I was torn.  I was so excited about the cookies – I could almost taste them – but obviously pleasing the judges was my main concern.  I took a quick e-mail poll and lemon was soundly defeated by chocolate-mint cupcakes.  Frustrated, I went back to the grocery store, bought a set of mini-muffin pans and more butter, and got started making and carefully frosting 4 dozen mini-cupcakes.  They were adorable.  They were delicious.  They won first place for my department and $100 to the charity of my choice (although they were beaten out in the final round by some yummy-looking oreo truffles).  But I was still thinking about those lemon cookies.  With their perfect rosebud shape.  And I had the lemon extract… so I set a cookie-making date with myself for Sunday afternoon.

They turned out just as I had imagined them – buttery, ever-so slightly crumbly cookies, with the delicious sweet lemony tang in the filling.  They are the kind of cookies I would serve at tea, or a baby shower, if I wasn’t 22 and hosted things like teas and baby showers.  Piping the dough through a frosting tip presented a bit of a challenge, as the dough was too thick for my bootleg ziploc baggie frosting method and burst right through it.  But I really wanted them to be pretty, so I got dirty and used my hands to push the dough through the frosting tip one cookie at a time.  I was a mess.  It was worth it.  They would also be just as good just dolloped on the pan, if you weren’t inclined to strive for rosebud cookie glory.  Next time you want a subtle, elegant cookie to add to your cookie tray, I would definitely recommend trying these out.

Lemon-Cream Sandwich Cookies

Cookie recipe adapted from Canelle et Vanille.  Makes 10 sandwiches.

  • 1 stick salted butter, room temperature
  • 7 TBS sugar
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1/2 tsp lemon extract
  • 1/4 tsp orange extract
  • 1 1/3 c. flour
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 stick salted butter, softened
  • 2-3 c. powdered sugar
  • 2-3 TBS lemon juice
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.  In a large bowl, cream together 1 stick butter with sugar.  Add egg yolks one at a time, beating between additions.  Beat in extract.  Beat in flour and salt until fully incorporated.  Dough should be the consistency of a soft clay – workable with some stretch, but not runny.  Spoon dough by the tablespoon onto baking sheet, or pipe through a large frosting tip into a rosebud.  Cookies will spread a fair amount in the oven, so do not place too close together.  Bake for 8-10 minutes, until tops are just beginning to turn golden brown, then remove from oven and allow to cool completely before frosting.
  2. In a medium bowl, beat butter until creamy.  Add powdered sugar a half cup at a time, beating to fully incorporate between additions.  When frosting is stiff but workable.  Add lemon juice and beat until incorporated.  Test for flavor, adding more lemon juice if necessary.  Add more powdered sugar until frosting hold soft peaks.  Spread a spoonful of frosting on the bottom of a cookie, then press another cookie evenly against the center to create a sandwich.  Roll in sanding sugar if desired.  Serve at room temperature; refrigerate any leftovers.

 

How ‘Bout … Cupcakes!

0 September 30, 2011 Dessert

How ‘Bout … Cupcakes!

Have you seen this video?  I’m obsessed with it.  This girl has got it figured out.  Dinner time?  How about cupcakes!  Breakfast?  I know, cupcakes!  Every time she says it she is clearly thinking very hard about what the correct thing to eat is.  And every time she comes to the same conclusion: cupcakes.  Duh, mom.

I took a page from Julia’s book and made cupcakes for no reason other than that I felt like it.  And a little bit because I got a new frosting tip and wanted to see if it magically transformed my creations into something beautiful.  Which in my opinion it totally did.  Turns out they were good enough to be made again 3 days later and entered into my company’s charity bake-off where they won $100, but that’s another story.  This chocolate cake recipe is one that seems to be pretty prevalent around the internet, so I decided to give it a try, although I’m unsure of its original origin.  It’s definitely delicious – super moist and chocolatey, and it leaves you with slightly sticky, cakey fingers after each bite – but I think I would only use it for certain recipes.  It reminds me a lot of chocolate cakes from childhood birthday parties because of it’s simple flavor and almost gooey (but in a good, cakey way) texture, so it’s perfect with tiny, simply frosted cupcakes, but I wouldn’t use it for a more elegant recipe.  With the mint frosting these were almost refreshing in their mintiness, and, especially in their mini form, the perfect minty-chocolate bite of dessert.

Chocolate-Mint Cupcakes

Makes 12 regular cupcakes; 48 mini cupcakes.

For cupcakes:

  • 1 c. sugar
  • 7/8 c. flour (7/8 c. = 3/4 c. + 2 TBS)
  • 3/8 c. cocoa (3/8 c. = 6 TBS)
  • 3/4 tsp baking powder
  • 3/4 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 c. milk
  • 1/4 c. vegetable oil
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/2 tsp peppermint extract
  • 1/2 c. boiling water

For frosting

  • 1 1/2 sticks softened, salted butter
  • 3 c. powdered sugar
  • 1-2 TBS heavy cream
  • 1/2 tsp peppermint extract
  • 1 drop green food coloring
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F and line muffin tin with muffin liners.  In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, until well combined.  Add egg, milk, vegetable oil, and extracts, and whisk for about 2 minutes, until batter has no lumps.  Add 1/2 c. boiling water and incorporate.  Spoon batter into prepared muffin tin – 1 full TBS of batter each for mini cupckaes, 1/2 c. batter for regular cupcakes (which should be about 3/4 full).  Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean – 18-20 minutes for regular cupcakes, and 10-12 minutes for mini cupcakes.  Allow to cool completely before frosting.
  2. In a medium bowl, beat the softened butter until smooth and creamy.  Add the powdered sugar a half cup at a time, beating to creamy stage between each addition.  If the buttercream gets too stiff to beat, add a splash of heavy cream and incorporate.  Once all the powdered sugar is added and the buttercream holds stiff peaks, add the peppermint extract and food coloring, and beat until fully combined.  Adjust for flavor and consistency – add more powdered sugar for a stiffer, sweeter frosting, and a splash of heavy cream for a thinner, richer frosting.  Store frosting and frosted cupcakes in fridge in airtight container.

Cookbook of the Month: Cooking with My Indian Mother-in-Law

5 September 22, 2011 Asian and Indian

Cookbook of the Month: Cooking with My Indian Mother-in-Law

I knew it was dangerous for me to name a post Cookbook of the Month, implying that I really, truly would be able to review at least 1 cookbook every single month.  It didn’t seem that hard – what’s one post a month? – but I guess I should have considered my initial hesitation more thoroughly before going ahead and making false implied promises.  In July there was a glorious debut, and then in August, even though I had a book planned and the post written, I left you hanging.  So sorry!  At least I’ve only missed 1 month so far!  (I’m feeling glass is half full tonight, so please, be kind, and don’t point out that missing 1 month is also missing 50% of what was planned).  And I’m here now!  With this delicious, delicious, completely different from anything else I’ve had before dish from September’s cookbook, “Cooking with My Indian Mother-in-Law,” by Simon Daley.

This book was one of the ones that caught my eye early in my cookbook-devouring days.  Actually, I think it was the first or second cookbook that I picked up in the library and literally read like a novel.  After seeing that the opening pages contain tricks to the fundamentals of Indian cooking – such as how to mix fresh spice blends, quick fry onions, and tell when a masala is ready by watching the oil – I was hooked.  Then, as I flipped through the recipes and saw that they included spices I’d never heard of before, like asafoetida and curry leaves, I was even more intrigued.  I love Indian food and I like to try and make it at home, but I’m usually disappointed by the lack of complexity in my dishes – I want that restaurant quality layer of flavor.  My theory being that perhaps there’s only so much you can expect from using just curry powder and turmeric, I went ahead and picked up the mysterious spices from Wholefoods and began trying the recipes out.  The first one I tried, chickpea flour dumplings with yogurt, is still one of my favorite recipes, especially when I want to impress friends at the last minute, as it’s quick to throw together and I almost always have the ingredients on hand.  I also tried a meatball curry which wasn’t as impressive in its originality (at least, its originality to me!) and flavor, but was still satisfying.

The recipe featured here, for rice with moong dal and spiced buttermilk, beats both the curry and the chickpea dumplings in terms of flavor, although it takes a little bit more time and effort to prepare.  The flavor of this is so unique and wonderful – its warm, savory, comforting, just a little spicy, and satisfying on every level.  Making the spiced buttermilk was like an experiment in chemistry, as you start with just yogurt, water, a minimal amount of spices, and some curry leaves, and you end with a spicy, yellow, thickened milk that you could use in a number of ways.  Paired with the complex yet gently spiced rice and lentils, its a completely satisfying eating experience, at least in my book.  I encourage you to check this book out, especially if you’re looking for recipes that will give your attempts at this complex cuisine that extra punch of authenticity.  Need further convincing?  Just give this rice a try, and then make your decision.

Rice with Moong Dal and Spiced Buttermilk

Adapted slightly from Cooking with My Indian Mother-in-Law by Simon Daley.  Serves 4 as a side.


For the rice:

  • 1 c. basmati rice
  • 1/2 c. moong dal (tiny green pulses, split)
  • 2 1/2 c. hot water
  • 1/2 stick butter
  • 3 in. cinnamon stick
  • seeds from 3 cardamom pods
  • 3 cloves
  • 12 black peppercorns
  • 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 2 small green chiles (Indian), sliced
  • 10 curry leaves
  • 1/2 tsp. turmeric
  • 1 tsp salt
  1. Rinse rice and dal, then soak in warm water for 20 minutes.  Melt butter over low heat.  When it foams, add all whole spices and cook for 1-2 mintues, stirring, until spices are fragrant, but not beginning to burn.  Add the onion, garlic, chiles, and curry leaves, and cook until onion has softened.  Add turmeric, cook for 30 seconds, then add 2 1/2 c. hot water, salt, rice, and dal.  Increase heat to bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes, until rice has absorbed all water.  Set aside, removing any whole cloves you can see .

For the spiced buttermilk:

  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • 1/2 inch ginger, peeled and cut into chunks
  • 1 green chili, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds, divided
  • 6 oz. plain yogurt
  • 1 tsp chickpea flour
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric
  • 1/2 tsp brown sugar
  • 1 branch curry leaves (about 15-20 leaves)
  • 1 TBS canola or peanut oil
  • 1/4 tsp mustard seeds
  • pinch fenugreek
  • 2 cloves
  • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
  • cilantro (optional)
  1. Crush garlic, ginger, chiles, 1/4 tsp cumin seeds, and salt into a paste using a mortar and pestle.  Blend yogurt with 1 1/2 c. water on high speed.  Pour off 1/2 of the yogurt mixture, and add the chickpea flour to the remaining yogurt.  Blend, then add the reserved yogurt back in, along with the turmeric, brown sugar, and chili-garlic paste.  Blend until smooth.
  2. In a large saucepan, heat oil over low heat.  Add mustard seeds, 1/4 tsp cumin seeds, fenugreek, and cloves, and cook for 1 minutes.  Add asafoetida and cook for 30 seconds more.  Add yogurt mixture, cilantro and curry leaf branch, then cook, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes.  Serve in a pitcher to be poured over rice and moong dal.
Asparagus, Smoked Gouda, and Serrano Ham Salad

0 September 11, 2011 Recipe

Asparagus, Smoked Gouda, and Serrano Ham Salad

Starting work has come with some unexpected changes – during the week, time is more structured than it was while I was in school, and I feel like I barely have any free time on weeknights.  On the weekend, however, time is wide open – no homework, or meetings, or school events, just picnics and long runs and parties and catching up on sleep.  Overall, I probably have more free time than I ever did in college, it’s just allocated differently, and it’s taking me a while to get used to it.  One of the effects of this time crunch is that I’ve barely eaten at home in the past few weeks.  OK, to be honest, it’s also partly because it’s the first time I have a real income and because I’m suddenly living in a place where restaurant food is super accessible and delicious and varied.  And also because my job seems to provide me with at least 3 utterly delicious, fully compensated meals a week.  All told, the kitchen and I are a bit estranged.

Hopefully I’ll fall back into a more balanced cooking pattern soon, especially because I can imagine my healthfulness deteriorating quite quickly if I stay on a restaurant-centric diet, but for now I’m kind of enjoying all the new dishes I’ve tried.  Some have been less than memorable, like the delicious-sounding but not-that great blue-cheese and steak dim sum I had in Orlando, or the mediocre sandwiches I’ve had in transit.  Others, however, have been truly delicious, and my two favorites in the past few week were some garlic-crusted soft pretzels with spicy queso dip, and this asparagus, edamame, smoked gouda, and serrano ham salad, which I liked so much that I decided to recreate it for one of my rare at home meals.

I ordered this salad at a get-to-know you lunch with one of my managers, thinking it would be light, not too messy, and easy to eat while talking.  I wasn’t expecting anything special, but oh-man did I enjoy this.  It definitely is very light, but substantial at the same time, and the simple dressing of olive oil and salt allows the flavors of each ingredient to shine through.  At the restaurant it was served with fava beans, but I have only seen fresh fava beans once in my life, and wasn’t keen on spending a whole day searching for them, so I substituted edamame.  I think the favas were a little bit better, as their distinctive almost-bitter flavor played off the salty flavors well, but the edamame was a decent substitution.  In any case, this salad was just as fresh and delicious when I had it at home, and very easy to throw together to boot.  If you’re looking for a change in your salad routine, I’d definitely recommend this one.

Asparagus, Gouda, Serrano Ham, and Edamame Salad

Serves 1.

  • 1/2 lb. asparagus
  • olive oil
  • coarse sea salt
  • 1 1/2 c. mixed greens with dill
  • 1/2 c. frozen edamame, cooked according to package directions
  • 3 oz. smoked gouda, cubed
  • 1 oz. serrano ham, pulled into thin slices
  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.  Rinse asparagus and trim thick ends by about an inch.  Place on baking sheet and drizzle generously with olive oil and sea salt.  The oil and salt from the asparagus will be used to dress the entire salad.  Roast for 8 mins, until tips are beginning to brown and spears are crisp-tender, then remove and cut spears in half.
  2. Toss greens, asparagus, gouda cubes, and cooked edamame together.  Top with slices of serrano ham.  Drizzle with additional olive oil if necessary.  Serve while asparagus is still warm.
Chile Contest – Adobo and Sweet Corn Frittata

0 September 5, 2011 Latin and Mexican

Chile Contest – Adobo and Sweet Corn Frittata

UPDATE: Vote for me here!

When I sat down to write this post I was in a bad mood.  Bad moods tend to give me writer’s block, except for the negative things, which seem to get through just fine.  This was my original draft of this post:

“I hate food.  I don’t like chiles.  I quit this contest.  Corn sucks.  Also stop reading food blogs it’s making you fat.  It’s making me fat too.  This is my last blog post ever.  Peace.  If you ever ate meat you are basically responsible for killing bambi’s mom.  Traffic sucks.  Trains suck.  Goodbye.  Blog blog blog blah blah blog blog. [This is what Trevor says when I’m writing blog posts.]”

None of these things are actually true, except that writing a food blog actually does make you a little bit fatter than you’d like to be, unless you have the self-control of some animal that seems strong-willed and regal that is not a human.  Like a cougar, or an iguana.  And anyway, the reason that I was in a foul mood while writing is that I was sitting on a train for an hour immediately after sitting in a car for five and a half hours in Labor Day traffic immediately before riding the subway for 45 minutes.  So really, I just don’t like traveling, people who wave at you when you’re stuck in traffic, and sticky train seats.  I actually like chiles and contests and corn quite a bit, which is why I signed up for this contest in the first place.  Also, because when I saw the announcement for this contest I was basically only cooking things that contained various ratios of fruit, sugar, and butter, and I thought chiles would provide a little bit of inspiration.

At this point I am going to back up to the point at which I would have started had I been in a good mood while writing this, and inform you that I am participating in a contest hosted by Marx Foods to develop an original recipe using a sample of their dried chiles.  I really like participating in their contests because a. they have great products that I get to use in the recipe development process, b. they have great prizes even though I don’t usually win, and c. the contests push me to think outside of the box.  Also, they come up with really original, delicious sounding recipes on their blog, which you should check out if you haven’t.

Anyways, they sent a sample of six types of dried chiles – aji amarillo, mulatto, habanero, puya, cascabel, and japones.  We were required to use at least one of the chiles in an original recipe, and after reading the descriptions on the chile samples, I decided that I had to use the mulatto chiles, as they were described as having mild heat, with a hint of molasses and chocolate.  Um, yum.  By far the best dish I made this summer was the “market corn” from Antojitos (which I described here,) so I decided to use that recipe as my inspiration for this contest.  The Flavor Bible informed me that eggs and dried chiles were a good match, and there was my spark – a sweet corn and adobo frittata.  I started by making an adobo sauce from the mulatto and puya chiles, sweetened with a bit of brown sugar and a tablespoon of molasses.  Then I mixed it into some eggs with some cheddar cheese (although I think I’d prefer something sharper, like parmesan) and fresh sweet corn, fried then broiled it, and topped with diced avocado.  I had mixed expectations for this creation – would it really go together as well as I hoped it would? – which were actually far exceeded by the result.  It was scrumptious.  And easy.  And the adobo sauce itself was super flavorful, and I had it the next day on top of a hamburger and that was almost more delicious.  Almost.

So, if you think this sounds good, or you like these lovely pictures, or you think it’s funny when I’m grouchy, or you feel bad for killing bambi’s mom, or you are enjoying this picture of Trevor using the cascabel chiles as maracas, or think that winning a sausage medley would cheer me up, keep your eye out for me to post the link to Marx Foods to vote for me to win this contest.  Cool?  Cool.

Adobo and Sweet Corn Frittata

Serves 3.  Adobo sauce recipe adapted from Emeril Lagasse.

Adobo Sauce – Makes 1 1/2 cups.

  • 3 mulato chiles
  • 4 puya or guajillo chiles
  • 1/2 small onion, diced
  • 1 TBS minced garlic
  • 1 TBS brown sugar
  • 1 TBS molasses
  • 1/2 tsp oregano
  • 1/2 tsp thyme
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/4 tsp cumin
  • dash allspice
  • dash cloves
  • 3 TBS cider vinegar
  • salt to taste
  1. Toast the chiles in a dry pan over medium-high heat, turning every 30 seconds or so and pressing down with tongs until chiles begin to soften.  Do not allow to char.  Remove chiles from heat with tongs, and remove stem and seeds from chiles.  Discard stem and seeds and place chile flesh in a small saucepan.  Cover chiles with just enough hot water to submerge, then bring to a boil.  Remove from heat, cover pan, and allow chiles to steep for 20 minutes.  Remove chiles from pot and add to blender, reserving soaking water separately.
  2. Add vinegar, onion, garlic, sugar, molasses, and spices, and pulse to blend fully.  Add salt, and taste for seasoning, adjusting as necessary.  Store in an airtight container in the fridge.

For the frittata:

  • 4 eggs
  • 2 TBS adobo sauce
  • 1/2 tsp dried thyme
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 TBS butter
  • 1 ear corn, boiled briefly and kernels removed
  • 1/3 c. parmesan or cheddar cheese
  • 1 avocado, diced, for topping
  1. Beat together eggs, cheese, adobo sauce, salt, and thyme.  Over medium heat in an oven-safe pan, melt butter and saute corn for a minute or two.  Add eggs and allow to sit undisturbed for 1 minute, then pull edges gently from side of pan to let uncooked egg fall through.  Allow to cook undisturbed for 3 minutes, until mostly set, and then transfer to the oven and broil on high for 2 minutes, until top is cooked through.  Top with avocado, and serve warm.
Sweet-tox

1 August 30, 2011 Recipe

Sweet-tox

A lot has happened since I last wrote – I’ve moved into a new house, started my first real job, weathered a hurricane, and learned my way around a new kitchen, meaning I have no shortage of writing material.  Actually, I’m a little overwhelmed by all of the things I could say, and the sudden extreme drop in the amount of free time I have.  I’m sure I’ll get used to the new schedule, but for now it still takes me three separate occasions to finish folding a basket of laundry.  So, at least for today, I’m gonna bypass the hurricane and my new kitchen and working life and stick with something I’ve really been meaning to get to – being less fat.  (Mostly figuratively, but a little bit literally too.)

You may have noticed that things have tended heavily toward the sweet side around here this summer.  First there was plum butter and chocolate crepes, then blackberry financiers, then lemon pound cake, and then blueberry and coconut pie.  All of these things were utterly delicious and worthy of blogging about.  (Except the financiers, which actually were just OK in my book, even though I still managed to eat them all in less than 24 hours.)  I made even more sweet things than I blogged about – reeses pieces cookies, frozen lemon meringue pie for Robbie’s birthday, and two other blueberry pies.  The number of times I had pie for breakfast in the 10 days before I left Maine was greater than or equal to 4, decidedly greater than if you extend “pie” to include “freshly picked wild blackberry crumble.”  It was a delicious summer for me, but even though I’ve been doing my best to keep up with running, vacation caught up with me, as well as with my very satisfied but slightly larger than desired middle.

But vacation is over. Literally. Because I just started my job. And not just like a summer job, like a career job.  I AM SO OLD.  But it’s exciting.  So it’s time for a little bit less pie (at least until apple season), and a little more filling, portable, “I can have you for dinner and still not mind taking you to work the next day” food.  Like this carrot, white bean, and feta salad, which has been a favorite for me this summer.  It’s a recipe that I’d had bookmarked since before I started blogging, and when I finally got around to trying it at the beginning of the summer, I thought it was just OK.  Warm, filling, tasty, but missing something.  Then, the next day when I was rummaging around for lunch, I reheated it until it was piping hot and added feta cheese, and was totally sold, and I’ve made at 4 or 5 times since then.  It’s also exceedingly easy, so easy that I can throw the carrots on the stove and leave them to caramelize while I get ready for work, then come back 10 minutes later, toss them with the rest of the ingredients, and be ready to go.  Sweet-tox, commence.


Caramelized Carrot, Cannelini Bean, and Feta Salad

Makes 2 servings.  Adapted from 101 Cookbooks.

  • 3 TBS olive oil
  • 5-6 large carrots
  • 1 can cannelini beans, rinsed well
  • 2 TBS chopped fresh dill, optional
  • crumbled feta cheese, to taste
  • 1 TBS lemon juice
  • 2 shallots, thinly sliced
  • sea salt, to taste
  • 2 TBS brown sugar
  1. Heat 1 TBS of the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat.  Peel carrots and cut thinly on the bias, then add to pan in a single layer.  Let cook about 5 minutes, then stir/flip, and continue cooking until carrots are caramelized all over.  If using, add chopped dill about 8 minutes after starting the carrots.  If serving salad immediately, turn down heat to low and let pan cool off slightly then add the beans and heat through – adding beans to the sizzling pan will make a huge mess.  If reheating later, just add the rinsed beans to a large bowl and add the hot carrots to the beans.
  2. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 TBS olive oil with the lemon juice and sea salt, and add sliced shallots.  Let sit 5 minutes, then toss with salad.  Stir in the brown sugar, and serve hot (not just warm!), sprinkled with crumbled feta cheese.
Good ol’ Blueberry-and-Coconut Pie

3 August 15, 2011 Cookbook

Good ol’ Blueberry-and-Coconut Pie

I feel like a “Maine is awesome and relaxing and beautiful and look there are wild blueberries!” post is acceptable, possibly even required, at least once a year.  Especially since this is probably the last summer for a while that I’ll have as much free time as I’ve had to just hang out there.  (Although, to counteract that negative point, there’s the fact that it’s also the first time that I’ll ever be able to go up for long weekends in the fall and spring.)  Plus, not coming up with blueberry recipes when you have free access to a full-sized ex-commercial blueberry field seems a little bit like a crime.  So, here goes:

Maine is awesome!  It has nature!  And mountains!  And lakes!  And blueberries!  Yay yay yay yay yay!  But seriously, even the rainiest, darkest, most boring day in Maine is significantly better than the same day would be anywhere else.  Commitments feel less pressing, time slows down, and days run easily together into a long summery memory.  On sunny days, we wake up early and refreshed and drink our tea on the back porch, watching the lake come to life and letting the sun slowly warm us out of sleep.  We float in the just-warm-enough lake, or read on the dock, stopping occasionally to watch the loons shake out their wings, or traipse through the blueberry barrens popping sun-sweetened berries into our mouths with every step, or zip across the harbor for an island picnic.   On rainy days, we all sit around the woodstove and read, or play cards, drinking hot chocolate and munching on cookies.  Every night, rain or shine, we sit down around the long wooden table for a hot meal together.  So yes, I’m condensing the experience into the best parts – we still have to do things like get groceries and clean the house and we still irritate each other as families are wont to do – but the average Maine day is better just because of the opportunity to do more than we might otherwise.  To step outside and find something new.  To gather the family for a quick boat trip.  Being in Maine is more spontaneous than being elsewhere, and much of it still feels wild and untouched, and I love it.

I made this pie the other night because I was actually tired of having so many blueberries sitting around in the fridge, and I wanted to use them up.  I briefly considered blogging about it, but by the time it came out of the oven it was too dark for pictures, and I knew it wouldn’t make it to the morning with 8 people in the house, so I just served it up and abandoned the blog prospect.  But then, it was just so good that I knew I had to make it again to share with you all.  It didn’t hurt that the recipe left me with extra crust dough and extra topping, so making another one was a breeze.  My mom had sort of wrinkled her nose when I told her there was coconut in my blueberry pie, and both my brother and my cousin almost refused to have any on the grounds that they didn’t like coconut, but all were converted after the first bite.  It’s melt-in-your-mouth delicious, with the hint of lemon and coconut bringing out the sweetness of the blueberries and giving it an almost tropical feeling, even though it’s from a book of Italian desserts.  It’s not particularly easy or quick, and with all that butter it’s not exactly healthy, but despite all that, I have a feeling it will become a regular during blueberry season.  It’s too good not to have.

Blueberry and Coconut Pie

Adapted from Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen.  Serves 8-12.

A note about this recipe: the sweet tart crust recipe makes enough dough for two full 9-inch pie crusts, with a little room for error.  I decided not to halve the recipe here due to the awkwardness of trying to use half an egg yolk and the prevalence of measurements that are in thirds.  Once you have rolled out the dough and transferred it to the pan, cut the extra off with a knife, roll the scraps back into a ball, and double wrap it in plastic to be stored in the freezer.  Then, the next time you want a pie, it will take half as much time!

For the sweet tart crust:

  • 2 1/3 c. flour
  • 1/3 c. sugar
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 3/4 c. (1 1/2 sticks) butter, cut into small cubes, then chilled well
  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 1/4 c. heavy cream
  • a few drops ice water, if necessary

For the filling and topping:

  • 6 TBS salted butter, divided
  • 1/3 c. flour
  • 1/4 c. sugar
  • 1 c. unsweetened shredded coconut, divided
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 c. confectioner’s sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/2 tsp. lemon extract or zest of 1 lemon
  • 3 c. blueberries
  • juice from 1 lemon
  • 1/4 c. sugar
  • 1 TBS cornstarch

For the crust:

  1. In a food processor, pulse flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and lemon zest until combined.  Add cold, cubed butter and pulse until mixture has a sandy texture, with pieces of butter no bigger than a pea.  In a small bowl, whisk together egg, egg yolk, heavy cream, and vanilla.  Add wet ingredients and pulse just until dough comes together when you pinch it.  Remove dough from bowl and work into a ball.  If mixture is still too dry/crumbly, add a few drops of ice cold water as necessary.  Knead the dough just until it is even in consistency and moisture.  Flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least half an hour before using.

For the topping and filling:

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.  Melt 2 TBS of the butter and cool slightly.  Add 1/2 tsp vanilla to melted butter.  In a medium bowl, whisk together the 1/3 c. flour, 1/4 c. sugar, and 1/4 c. of the coconut.  Add the melted butter mixture and combine well.  Transfer mixture to freezer for half an hour to set.
  2. Soften the remaining 4 TBS of butter, and mix with the confectioner’s sugar until smooth and creamy.  Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, until incorporated, and then add the lemon extract and remaining 3/4 c. of coconut.  Set aside.  In a large bowl, toss blueberries, lemon juice, sugar, and cornstarch, and let sit 5 minutes.
  3. While berries are macerating, roll out chilled dough on a floured counter into a 10-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick.  Roll the dough loosely over the rolling pin to transfer to the 9-inch pie tin, and drape over the tin.  Press the crust into the bottom and edges of the pan, then use a knife to cut the excess from the rim.  Roll together the scraps and freeze for a later pie.
  4. Spread the coconut filling evenly across the bottom of the pie.  Top with the blueberries and their juices.  Remove the topping from the freezer and use a fork to break it into small pieces.  Scatter these pieces over the top of the pie.  Bake the pie for 40-45 minutes, until crust and topping is golden-brown and berries are bubbling.
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