The Book: If you’re looking to update your go-to dessert recipes to something more elegant, modern, and seasonal, you are going to want to pick up a copy of Jenny McCoy’s Desserts for Every Season. There’s nothing run of the mill here – the recipes are unique and impressive but still uncomplicated. I love the emphasis on produce and seasonality – every recipe is firmly anchored to a time of year, which is something I’m glad to see, given that there seems to have been less emphasis on this in pastry than in main courses during the whole farm-to-table/seasonal/local movement. Although, I will say that Jenny’s “spring” recipes are definitely more like late July recipes for New England, given the inclusion of blueberries and lavender. As far as design goes, the whole book has a classy, subdued aesthetic that I very much like, with muted tones, botanical prints, and sedate, full-page pictures for most recipes. This will definitely be a book that I turn to for every future dinner party I plan.

The Food: The fact that some of the pages are already stuck together with sugar spills is a good sign, right? I tested this book out by making two pumpkin desserts  to celebrate October – a Pumpkin-Maple Ice Cream, and this Pumpkin Pie with a Gingersnap Crust and Milk Chocolate Ganache. I actually haven’t tried the ice cream yet (I made it right before I left on this trip and stuck it straight in the freezer as a treat for when I get back), but the base tasted delicious. This pie, however, I did taste, and it’s quite good. The pumpkin custard is a fairly typical pumpkin pie filling, although I love that it’s made with fresh pumpkin puree. But the two twists – a spicy, buttery gingersnap crust and a rich chocolate ganache – make this pie something special. If my mom gives up her pie-making rights, maybe I’ll bring it to Thanksgiving this year.

Recipe Shortlist: Honey-Roasted Pear Sorbet; Chestnut-Chocolate Layer Cake; Butterscotch Budino with Creme Fraiche; Cocoa-Lavender Cream Puffs; Peach and Sweet Corn Ice Cream Cake; Plum-Poppy Seed Kolache

Disclaimer: I received a review copy of Jenny McCoy’s Desserts for Every Season free of charge from Rizzoli, but was not otherwise compensated for writing this review.

Pumpkin Milk Chocolate Pie with a Gingersnap Crust

Recipe from Jenny McCoy’s Desserts for Every Season. Serves 8-10.

• nonstick cooking spray
• 1 1/2 c. (about 6 oz.) gingersnap cookie crumbs
• 2 TBS plus 1/2 cup light brown sugar, divided
• 3/4 tsp fine sea salt, divided
• 5 TBS unsalted butter, melted
• 1 1/2 c. Roasted Sugar Pumpkin and Kabocha Squash (recipe below)
• 4 large eggs
• 1 large egg yolk
• 3/4 c. plus 3 TBS heavy cream, divided
• 1 TBS molasses
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground ginger
• 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
• 1/2 c. (3 oz.) milk chocolate chips
• 1 TBS light corn syrup

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Spray a 9-inch pie plate with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.
2. Stir together the gingersnap crumbs, 2 TBS of the brown sugar, 1/4 tsp of the sea salt, and the melted butter. (If you are using whole gingersnaps, you can crush them and combine with the other ingredients by blending everything in a food processor.) Stir until the mixture has the consistency of wet sand, then pour into the pie plate and pack very firmly and evenly against the bottom and sides of the pan. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until the crust is slightly puffed and a bit darker in color. Let cool at room temperature for 5 minutes, then freeze until ready to use.
3. Change the oven temperature to 325°F. In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 1/2 c. brown sugar, the remaining 1/2 tsp salt, the roasted pumpkin, the whole eggs, the egg yolk, 3/4 c. of the heavy cream, molasses, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg until completely smooth. Pour the custard into the pre-baked pie crust. Carefully transfer to oven, and bake until custard is set in the center when the pie is slightly jiggled, about 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to set.
4. About 25 minutes before you are ready to serve the pie, prepare the milk chocolate ganache. Place the chocolate chips in a large heatproof bowl and set aside. Place the remaining 3 TBS of heavy cream and the corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour over the chocolate, let stand for 2 minutes, then gently whisk the ganache until smooth. Spread the ganache over the center of the pie, leaving a slight gap between the crust and the chocolate. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to set the ganache. Serve chilled, with whipped cream.

Roasted Sugar Pumpkin and Kabocha Squash

Recipe from Jenny McCoy’s Desserts for Every Season. Makes 8 cups of puree.

• One 4-lb sugar pumpkin
• One 4-lb kabocha squash

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the pumpkin and squash into eighths, then remove and discard the seeds. Place the pumpkin and squash pieces in a large baking dish, fill with about 1/4 inch of water, and cover with aluminum foil. Roast for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, until the flesh is fork tender.
2. When the pumpkin and squash pieces are cool enough to handle, use a large spoon to scrape the flesh out of the skins, discarding the skins. Puree the pumpkin and squash flesh in a food processor or blender until totally smooth (don’t skip this! It makes a big difference in the consistency of your baked goods). Let cool to room temperature before using in a recipe. You can freeze any leftover puree for up to 3 months.

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Soups and Stews

Roasted Chestnut and Potato Soup with Goat Cheese

I really love soup, but this one might be my all time favorite. (Or at least tied with Portuguese Kale Soup and Corn and Potato Chowder). I only get to make this once or twice a year because fresh chestnuts can be hard to come by in Boston, but when I do make it, I savor every smooth, comforting spoonful.

Mushroom and Farro Soup

Here’s a light and healthy soup that’s perfect for fall. It’s very quick to put together (think, 30 minutes, total, with only 10 of that involving being in the kitchen), and satisfying without being too rich.

Roasted Carrot and Tahini Soup with Spiced Chickpeas

It took me a long time to find a carrot soup that I really loved, but this one is a winner. Roasting the carrots makes them sweeter as well as making it easier to achieve a super smooth puree. A few spoonfuls of tahini gives this soup an intense, nutty depth. Topped off with a handful of crunchy, spicy chickpeas, it’s a slightly exotic-tasting but extremely comforting meal.

French Beef Stew with Red Wine

This beef stew, adapted from Home Made Winter, is the most popular recipe I’ve ever posted on this blog, by a long-shot. Beef stew is a favorite meal for many, and adding a sophisticated French twist in the form of red wine, oranges, and olives elevates this to a company-worthy dinner. Serve over super-smooth garlicky mashed potatoes with a nice bottle of red wine and everyone will be satisfied.

White Bean, Kale, and Pesto Soup

This is another quick-and-easy favorite for me. If I have any leftover pesto on hand, I’ll almost always make this soup. I love how decadent the pesto and grated pecorino make it taste, when really, I’m mostly eating vegetables. This soup is not too heavy, but is filling enough to make a meal on its own.

Salads and Mains

Curried Apple Couscous

This is a favorite quick meal for me – I love the contrast of the curry butter, the sweet apples, and the crunchy almonds. It’s great on a busy Saturday when you only have a few minutes for lunch but want a real meal.

Pear and Pomegranate Salad

This pretty salad is sweet and crunchy, which are my two requirements for salads that don’t contain bacon. Of course you probably could add bacon to this – it would be delicious.

Sage Pesto, Apple, and Goat Cheese Flatbreads

When the basil plants finally give in to the cold, I like to make a nutty pesto from hardier sage leaves instead. Mixed with sliced apples and goat cheese as a flatbread topping, it’s a pleasantly different combination of flavors.

Pumpkin and Sweet Potato Moussaka

While this autumnal re-interpretation of the Greek classic is admittedly labor intensive, it’s worth the effort at least once a season. Adapted from The Country Cooking of Greece, the sweetness of the potatoes and pumpkin are a great counterpoint to the salty meat and the rich bechamel sauce.

Brussels Sprout, Sweet Potato, and Chorizo Hash

This recipe has three of my favorite fall foods – brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, and chestnuts. Topped with a runny fried egg and a sprinkle of goat cheese, it’s super satisfying at breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Baking

Pumpkin and Cheddar Muffins

Pumpkin and cheddar may seem like an unusual combination, but these muffins, from the genius guys at Baked, prove that pumpkin can successfully straddle the sweet-savory divide. A twist of black pepper really ties these together, and I think they’re perfect for breakfast or an afternoon snack.

Fig and Almond Custard Tart

Figs are one of fall’s fleeting treasures (and the few we picked from our new tree this year were so perfect). I made this tart for Trevor since figs are one of his favorites, and he devoured every bite. It’s a little bit fancy, but great for company or a special occasion.

Quinoa Apple Cake

I love this recipe, another one from Home Made Winter, because it really tastes like a cake (you know, sweet, and moist and all that) but I know it’s healthy so I don’t feel bad having a big slice. It’s also quite filling, and I love the fall spices in it.

Overnight Cinnamon-Pumpkin Rolls

Cinnamon rolls get a fall makeover with a pumpkin-based dough in this recipe, which is actually fairly simple to put together. Made the night before, everyone will love you (or you’ll seriously love yourself) in the morning when you pop them in the oven and the house starts to smell amazing.

Cider Doughnut Cake

Once October starts, I pretty much lose the ability to turn down any cider doughnut that is offered to me (or that I purposefully walk by at the farmer’s market). I love this cake because it allows me to consume cider doughnuts en masse without breaking out a fryer or a doughnut pan. It’s also a great one to bring to parties or brunches because it’s made to serve a crowd.

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Just because Thanksgiving has passed, Halloween is a distant memory, and I’ve already started posting about Christmas does not mean the season for canned pumpkin has ended.  But does it mean that it’s too late to share pictures of this year’s pumpkin carving?  Probably, but I’m ignoring that, because our pumpkin (and I’m using the word “our” loosely, as it was carved 100% by Trevor – how talented is he?) is too awesome not to share.  3D dragon?  Hell yeah.

Now that that bit of semi-irrelevant bragging is taken care of, let’s talk about some ways to use the 17 cans of pumpkin you (and by you I mean I) hoarded in your cabinet when you thought that there was going to be a pumpkin shortage.  Seriously, at the end of September, things were looking dire – I hadn’t seen a single can of pumpkin in any of the (four) grocery stores that I frequent.  So when I saw four measly cans at Pemberton Farms, I bought three (leaving one for someone else in my pumpkin-less situation out of empathy).  That same morning, Trevor brought over a supply of cans from his house.  Pumpkin shortage avoided.  Since then, I’ve used 1 and a half cans of pumpkin.  Turns out a little pumpkin goes a long way when you’re just one person.  I made these pumpkin scones, which didn’t have a great scone texture or a great pumpkin flavor, pumpkin oatmeal cookies, which were OK but mine came out too soft for my liking, this pumpkin ale bread, which was super fantastic, and I’m planning on trying this smoothie this week, but the recipe I’m choosing to share with you is much more decadent: pumpkin-cinnamon-pecan breakfast rolls with cream cheese frosting.  Um, yum.

These rolls are the perfect treat for a lazy weekend morning.  You can prep the dough and the frosting the night before, let them rest in the fridge overnight, and then in the morning all you’ve got to do is roll out the buns, slather with cinnamon-sugar butter, and pop them in the oven.  Twenty minutes later, as the house fills up with the smells of pumpkin and cinnamon and people start coming downstairs to sniff around, you officially become the worlds’ best mother/girlfriend/wife/daughter/male-versions-of-these-terms.  They taste like a really good, really soft cinnamon roll, but with the added punch of pumpkin, ginger, and nutmeg.  The toasted pecans in the filling and the lemon-cream-cheese frosting take them over the top.  I can almost guarantee you that a steaming pan of these and a hot pot of coffee could make any sunny December morning complete.

Overnight Cinnamon-Pumpkin Rolls

Roll recipe adapted from TheKitchn.  Frosting recipe from Good Life Eats.  Makes 8 large rolls.

For the dough:

• 2 TBS warm water
• 1/2 TBS instant yeast
• 1/2 c. milk
• 1/2 stick (1/4 c.) butter
• 1/4 c. sugar
• 1/2 (15 oz.) can pumpkin puree
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 2 1/2 c. AP flour

For the filling:

• 6 TBS butter
• 3/4 c. brown sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ginger
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1 c. pecans, chopped finely and toasted

For the frosting:

• 2 oz. cream cheese, softened
• 1/2 stick butter, softened
• 1 c. powdered sugar
• 1-2 tsp lemon juice

1. Proof the yeast: In a small bowl, add the yeast to 1/8 c. warm (not hot) water and let sit for 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, heat the milk and the 1/2 stick butter over low heat until the butter is melted.  Mix in the sugar until fully dissolved, then let cool slightly so that it is warm to the touch, but not hot.  Stir the proofed yeast and the canned pumpkin into the milk mixture until evenly mixed, then add the salt and all the flour at once.  Stir to incorporate fully – dough should come together into a slightly sticky but workable mass.  Add another 1/4 c. of flour if dough is too sticky to work with.  Cover dough with a towel and let rise for 1-2 hours (until doubled in volume) in a warm place.  Punch down and place in fridge overnight.  (You can make the rolls directly from this point without the overnight refrigeration as well, but the extra resting time will result in a better flavor.)
2. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll out into a large rectangle of dough 1/2 inch thick, about 14 inches by 8 inches in size.  Melt the 1/2 stick of butter for the filling in the microwave, then mix in the brown sugar and spices, and spread on top of the dough, leaving an inch at the top (the long way – you’re going to roll it into a long tube and need a space to pinch the dough together).  Sprinkle toasted, chopped pecans on top.  Roll the dough into a long (14 inch tube) and pinch the ends together.  Use a sharp knife to slice the tube horizontally into 8 rolls.  Place these rolls in a buttered 9 inch cake pan with about 1/2 inch of room between them.  Cover and let rise for 40 minutes.
3. Preheat the oven to 375°F and bake risen rolls for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown on edges and no longer doughy in center.  While they bake, prepare the frosting: mix together cream cheese and butter until smooth.  Add powdered sugar and lemon juice and beat until they form a thin frosting.  Test for flavor and consistency, and adjust with more sugar or more lemon juice as needed.  Let rolls cool slightly then drizzle with cream cheese frosting.  Serve warm.

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Because I spent most of last weekend at the office, I took Tuesday as a comp day to try and make up for the beautiful fall weather we had on Saturday and Sunday.  As soon as I had decided that, yes, I really was going to take my first day off of work, my mind immediately started buzzing with all the things I wanted to do to make the most of it.  Sometimes, this can be a bit of a mental trap for me, as I get so bogged down in the planning and the anticipation that I forget to enjoy the actual doing.  This time, though, it worked out great – I knew exactly what I wanted to do when I fell asleep Monday night, the weather was supposed to be beautiful, I hadn’t tried to pack too much into one day, and so Tuesday morning, I just got up and did it.  And it was great.

I knew that to be as awesome as I wanted it to be, my day off would have to involve several things: one, being outside as much as possible; two, delicious food, preferably homemade; three, Trevor, because how good can a day be without a little flirtation; and four, my family, because I really do think that a significant portion of my best memories are just of sitting around the kitchen table with my family, drinking red wine, eating hearty meals, and laughing hysterically.  The solution to all these requirements ended up coming in a single form: apples.  Apple pancakes in the morning, apple picking with Trevor in the afternoon, and apple crisp with my family at night.  Given how many apples I ate yesterday, the doctor should be away for quite some time.

Apple picking is one of my favorite fall activities.  It’s outside, it’s a quintessential New England thing, it’s wholesome, and it involves food.  I grew up going to Smolak Farms, and driving around the corner of the orchard and looking down the hill at the lake and the pumpkin patch and the farmhouse fills me with this great surge of childish excitement.  Trevor and I spent two hours picking almost every kind of apple they had – we must have eaten at least 6 just while walking around.  We decided that apples are truly best just off the tree because they’re at the perfect temperature – refrigerated apples are so cold they hurt your teeth, apples left in your backpack all day are kind of warm and mealy, but just off the tree they have just the right amount of cool crispness.  God, they were so good.  When our bag was packed so full that I may have had to sneak an extra apple into my purse (it would have just rotted on the ground otherwise!) and we had chased some wild turkeys and climbed a few trees, it was time for the real reason for our visit – eating cider donuts.  Because cider donuts are possibly my favorite food groups.  And I still have one left over for breakfast tomorrow.  Win.  After that we headed back to my house for spaghetti with pepper sauce, salad, red wine, and hot apple crisp.  The day was as perfect and fulfilling as I’d wanted it to be, and I fell asleep happy and refreshed.  And very full.

Now let’s get back to breakfast.  I’m really picky about my pancakes – I hardly ever like them at diners, I refuse to eat them if they’re made from a mix, and I think fake maple syrup is inedible.  It’s probably because I grew up with my dad making awesome pancakes fairly frequently – he has a recipe, and he has it down, and now I’m just used to the best.  I like my pancakes thick and a little bit tangy – buttermilk is a must – usually with some blueberries or other fruit in them.  I’ve tried a lot of different recipes, and so far only one has been up to my standards.  It uses buttermilk and a smidge of sour cream, and the result is super flavorful, super moist pancakes.  I adapted it here with some fall-ish spices and chunks of fresh apples, then served them with boiled apple cider syrup and apple slices cooked in caramel.  They.  Were.  Heavenly.  Exactly what I wanted, and then some.  If moist, tangy pancakes and apples and deliciousness are your thing, try these the next time you want to have an awesome day, or celebrate fall, or go to work late, or all of the above.

Apple Buttermilk Pancakes with Cider Syrup

Pancakes adapted from Brown-Eyed Baker.  Makes 6-8 pancakes.

• 2 c. flour
• 2 TBS sugar
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp allspice
• 2 c. buttermilk
• 1/4 c. sour cream
• 2 eggs
• 4 TBS butter, melted and slightly cooled
• 2 apples, peeled and cut into 1/2 in. chunks

• 1/2 c. sugar
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 1 c. apple cider

1. Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices together until thoroughly combined.  In a separate bowl, gently beat eggs, then add buttermilk, sour cream, and melted butter, and mix until just combined.  Do not overmix.  Add wet ingredients to dry, and mix gently until batter is evenly moist, but still slightly lumpy.  Do not beat or overmix, as that will toughen your pancakes.  Add apple chunks, stir to distribute throughout batter, then let batter sit, undisturbed, for 10-20 minutes.
2. Heat a frying pan or on a griddle over medium-low heat.  Wait 3-5 minutes for pan to heat up – pan is ready when a drop of water flicked at the pan sizzles and evaporates within 2 seconds of being dropped on the pan.  Add 1/2 c. pancake batter to pan/griddle, and let cook for ~3 minutes – pancakes are usually ready to flip when the top side begins to have tiny air bubbles that burst.  Carefully flip, and cook until golden brown on both sides.  Repeat with remaining pancakes.  Serve hot, with syrup!
3. Cider syrup:  mix cornstarch with a small amount of the cider until it is fully dissolved, then mix all remaining ingredients in a saucepan.  Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until syrup has thickened to the desired consistency.  If you like a thick syrup, use 2 tsp cornstarch.  Store leftover syrup in fridge.

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